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• The Rise of the Nonalcoholic Bottle Shop
• Eater’s Guide to Idaho’s Snake River Valley
• How Chef Stefano Secchi Makes King Crab Girasoli at Michelin-Starred Rezdôra
• In ‘Succession,’ Food Exists Only to Create More Misery
• Where to Eat and Drink at Cleveland Hopkins International Airport (CLE)

The Rise of the Nonalcoholic Bottle Shop Posted: 23 Nov 2021 07:36 AM PST A lineup of drinks at Sipple Co. in Houston. | Sipple Co./Facebook Across the country, brick and mortar stores are opening to serve the needs of anyone looking for a fancy drink of something low-to-no proof When Mel Babitz went to bars in her early 20s, she'd order one beer at the beginning of the night and hold onto it until she left. Babitz wasn't much of a drinker — even a small amount of alcohol made her feel sick — but in the early 2010s, there just wasn't much on tap for her to drink besides seltzer. "I would get my one [can of] PBR and no one would know it was the same one from hours ago," she says. "Essentially, I was being underserved. I couldn't go out and order something I wanted." For years, that didn't change. Babitz worked at coffee shops and restaurants in Philly for many years, where she was given creative freedom to experiment. "I was always interested in what else to do besides put syrup in a latte," Babitz says, so it was only natural that she experiment on herself, buying bottles of the few zero-proof spirits that were just hitting the market at the time, and making the nonalcoholic drinks that she wishes she could have ordered at bars. Before long, she was running pop-ups after hours at local coffee shops, where she would serve up cocktails without alcohol, learning along the way which new nonalcoholic batched cocktails were good, which nonalcoholic beers she liked, what nonalcoholic spirits paired well with which mixers. Babitz educated herself on a burgeoning array of drinks, expanding her knowledge of the nonalcoholic bottles on the market. In May, Babitz decided to harness that knowledge by opening the Open Road in Pittsburgh, a bottle shop dedicated to selling only nonalcoholic beverages. She joins a small but growing list of business owners nationwide whose shops only sell bottles of wine, cans of beer, batched cocktails, spirits, and aperitifs that are 0.5 percent ABV or lower. Over the past few years, beverage options for nondrinkers, the sober-curious, and those who just want to expand their drink options past booze have gone from the musty memory of O'Doul's to hundreds of options, from beers and wines to spirits, aperitifs, and batched cocktails, either dealcoholized versions of the original or novel inventions. Following a wave of bars dedicated to zero-proof cocktails, nonalcoholic bottle shops tend to focus on batched cocktails in artfully designed bottles, wine proxies made with ingredients like caramelized pear, and so-called functional beverages infused with CBD, ginger, and turmeric — the brands really targeting the person who wants to drink without drinking. When many of the best-known nonalcoholic beverages are highly marketed, Instagram-targeted, direct-to-consumer products, it might seem counterintuitive to open a brick-and-mortar space to sell what people can easily buy online. But owners of nonalcoholic bottle shops don't agree. Minus Moonshine/Facebook Minus Moonshine bottle shop in Brooklyn. Nick Bodkins, founder of Boisson, a nonalcoholic bottle shop with three locations in New York City, says relying only on e-commerce means customers have a higher likelihood of ordering something they hate. "[At wine shops], you go and you discover new producers and talk to people that know what they're actually selling in there," Bodkins says. He doesn't think nonalcoholic shops need to reinvent that wheel. "Our retail component is massive because it allows us an opportunity to educate our customers." For shop owners, that education often comes from a place of obsession. For over 20 years, Danny Frounfelkner, co-owner of Sipple, a nonalcoholic bottle shop in Houston, worked in the hospitality industry. Frounfelkner grew up near Napa Valley, so "caught the wine bug pretty young," he says. He worked as a beverage director, a sommelier, and director of operations at City Orchard Cidery in Houston, but when Frounfelkner was furloughed from his job during the pandemic, he saw an opportunity to try out something else. Frounfelkner had cut back on his drinking a lot before the pandemic even started. "I had a very unhealthy relationship with alcohol, something that came from family stuff, conditioning, but also being a beverage director," he says. "I had wine breath at 10 a.m. almost every day." So when his job was put on hold, his professional and personal lives collided at the same time. As he saw the nonalcoholic beverage trend boom, he realized, "I can still nerd out on beverages and not have to focus on alcohol." Sipple started as an e-commerce website in January, then officially opened as a brick-and-mortar bottle shop in Houston in October — reportedly the city's first. The shop is near Rice University's campus, a decision Frounfelkner says he and his co-founder Helenita Frounfelkner made on purpose. "I know that the younger crowd — people in college and out of college — are pushing this movement and category forward." Even so, Frounfelkner says Sipple sees customers from between their early 20s to mid-70s — all of whom offer any range of reasons when asked about why they've decided to shop there. The most interesting challenge for Frounfelkner so far has been talking to people who have never tried alcohol. "A Mormon couple [came in] who had never even had a drink before," he says. "How do you explain what wine tastes like? I kind of went into a whole different realm: 'Do you drink water, soda, tea, coffee? What flavor profiles do you like?' Finally after some digging, we got there." Shop owners also note that many customers are in recovery. It's important owners and staff understand and explain which beverages still have a small amount of alcohol in them. ".5 percent ABV is roughly the alcohol content of a ripe banana," Babitz says. "A lot of things that we consume in the food space have an alcoholic content we don't think of: rye bread, sourdough, orange juice." But for the people who come to the Open Road who want to not have any alcohol at all, Babitz knows which bottles to steer them toward. "The top two questions I get are, 'Is this stuff actually good?' and 'What's the best thing?'" says Jillian Barkley, owner of nonalcoholic bottle shop Soft Spirits in Los Angeles. Since she opened the shop in September, she's noticed some pushback on social media. "People on the internet are always going to have things to say. I hear a lot of, 'What's the point of this, who would want this, this is just juice.' But I think with anything new, people tend to resist it, or not understand it." Like many physical spaces that exist outside of the mainstream, bottle shops are not just places for commerce: They also can be community spaces for people who don't feel comfortable at bars or other forums where alcohol is present. "The idea of nonalcoholic beverages can seem intimidating to a lot of people. I wanted to make sure that anyone who comes through our doors feels welcome no matter who they are," says Apryl Electra Storms, co-owner of Minus Moonshine, a nonalcoholic bottle shop that opened in June in Brooklyn. As a queer nonbinary person, Storms says that they have historically tried to cultivate or be a part of spaces where they feel safe to be themselves, which translates to how they run the shop. "It can feel overwhelming to walk into a new place especially when you're not drinking. There's no social lubricant, so to speak." Storms hopes their shop can ease that awkwardness. "This is a really great space to have everyone together because we all have this one thing in common," Storms says. Briefly, they ask if they can put me on hold — a customer has just walked into the shop. In the background, the customer — who is coming into Minus Moonshine for the first time — says to Storms, "I'm so happy you're here!"

Eater’s Guide to Idaho’s Snake River Valley Posted: 23 Nov 2021 06:00 AM PST Rows at Scoria Vineyard in Caldwell | Sydney Nederend From Basque chorizo to huckleberry ice cream, wine trails to mountaintop picnics, here's everything you need to know about wining and dining in Idaho's Snake River Valley Since it earned the nickname the Gem State, Idaho has been attracting fortune-seekers who see untapped value in the West. During the first six months of the COVID-19 pandemic, new residents flocked to the state, giving it the biggest pandemic population bump in the nation. The capital, Boise, has led the boom (with a surge in housing prices to match), as remote workers migrated east from the Bay Area and the Pacific Northwest in search of more space, cheaper rent, and a quieter lifestyle. New residents brought infusions of cash and interest, but they're building on the area's endearing underlying character. Boise is funky, cool, and friendly, while the surrounding foothills and nearby Boise National Forest put the great outdoors at the city's doorstep. Plus there's a thriving food scene powered by a strong Basque community and chefs quickly gaining national recognition. And then there's wine. Really great wine. Idaho is considered a newbie on the U.S. wine scene. Some of the first grapes planted in the Pacific Northwest were grown in Lewiston in 1864 — about three decades before statehood — but it took until 2007 for the federal Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau to approve the Snake River Valley as the state's first American Viticultural Area (AVA). Over a thousand miles long, the Snake River was formed more than 4 million years ago, overlaying the prehistoric Lake Idaho bed that creates the valley's boundaries. The AVA centers on a stretch of southwestern Idaho with the largest density of vineyards and wineries, along with bits of eastern Oregon. At 8,000 square miles, it dwarfs Napa and Sonoma, which together have 34 AVAs packed into just 2,500 miles. The designation, which put Snake River on par with more established wine regions, couldn't have come soon enough. In recent years winemakers have transplanted from California to apply their experience in the up-and-coming region — but there are also a lot of Idaho natives among the vintner ranks, including some on land handed down for generations. Overall, the Idaho wine industry feels refreshingly direct and laid-back compared to the exceedingly polished scenes in California and Oregon. The Snake River Valley winemaking community is young, but vintners make up for their lack of years with ambition and energy. You won't find a lot of pretension or stuffiness. You will find a lot of downright delicious wine. Here's your guide to everywhere you should drink, eat, and stay in the nation's buzziest new wine region. Cinder Wines View of Sunnyslope What to know before you go Basque Block: Boise is home to one of the largest communities of Basque Americans, including some who trace their roots back to a wave of Basque immigrants in the 19th century. Get your fill of chorizo, pintxos, and paella in downtown's Basque Block. Boise: You're probably saying "Boy-Z" when really it's pronounced "Boy-See." Sunnyslope Wine Trail: Visitors looking for great wine should start with this collection of 17 wineries and vineyards. Located about 30 miles west of Boise, the trail works its way through Meridian, Nampa, and Caldwell. Ste. Chapelle: The first Idaho winery to open after Prohibition, Ste. Chapelle was like the big bang for the region's wine industry when it opened in 1975. The winery is still kicking too, earning awards and national attention. Huckleberry: This small berry is Idaho's state fruit, so you'll see it on menus across the region. Similar to a blueberry, the huckleberry is more sweet than tart, especially when baked or cooked. Look out for huckleberry salad dressing, ice cream, cocktails, and even as a glaze for beef and other meats. Potatoes: You probably associated Idaho with this tuber long before grapes, and for good reason. The state harvests 13 billion pounds every year, 90 percent of which are russet potatoes. Fry Sauce: This simple mix of ketchup and mayo is excellent for dipping fried spuds. Its given name in Boise is slightly more dignified than Heinz's "mayochup." Syrah, Viognier, Riesling: Grape growers plant lots of varieties, but syrah, viognier, and riesling excel in Idaho, which is on the same latitude as the Rhone Valley in France and Rioja in Spain. Plus, with California's vines under the very real threat of frequent wildfires, Idaho is becoming a go-to for varietals like chardonnay and merlot. Garden City: Located across the river from downtown Boise, Garden City has become an increasingly popular area for small wine producers to set up shop — including a few folks who make some of the best bottlings in the region. From downtown Boise you can jump in a car and be there in about 10 minutes. The Greenbelt: This beloved urban trail celebrated its 50th birthday in 2019. The paved pathway snakes along the river and connects downtown Boise to Garden City, with plenty of wineries, restaurants, and green space along the route. Though it's a tourist hot spot, you'll also see plenty of locals fishing and zipping by on bikes and scooters. Cinder Wines Wine on tap at Cinder Wines Cinder Wines The tasting room at Cinder Wines Where to drink The eponymous Snake River supplies the region with abundant water, while its ancient volcanic sediment makes fertile, well-draining soils that give grape growers greater control. Cold winters also allow vines to go dormant (naturally ridding plants of pests and disease), while the combination of a dry climate, hot days, and cold nights balances the fruit's acids and sugars. All that adds up to beautiful, laser-focused wines worth a serious tour. Sunnyslope: The gorgeous tasting room at Koenig Vineyards is a must-visit. Take a seat on the expansive patio or start up a game of life-size chess as you sip the dry rosé (a juicy blend of sangiovese and merlot grapes) or cabernet sauvignon (full of vanilla and cherry). Climb the tower out front to enjoy views of the vineyards when you're done. Sawtooth Winery and Ste. Chapelle are next door to each other and feature the same winemaker, Meredith Smith. Both boast tasting rooms overlooking lovely vistas and serve wines that aren't readily available elsewhere. Look for the Trout Series at Sawtooth, and Panoramic and Treasure Valley Series at Ste. Chapelle. Patio-hop your way to Hat Ranch for a lively afternoon scene. As you admire the rows of grapes behind the tasting room, you'll notice hats of all different shapes and sizes adorning the fence posts — a quirky nod to the winery's name. Winemaker Tim Harless also produces for the Vale Wine Company, which is available to try at the tasting room. Garden City: Owners and winemakers Carrie and Earl Sullivan started Telaya Wine Co. as a way to work together (Earl was previously the COO of a pharmaceuticals company and Carrie a veterinarian). Now their tasting room is one of the most popular spots on the Greenbelt. On nice days, every table on the patio is occupied by wine drinkers (and their dogs) watching the action on the Greenbelt, maybe with a glass of 2020 Aman II "Clash," a blend of Idaho-grown gruner Veltliner and viognier that has tangerine and tropical notes. On cooler afternoons, you can stay toasty by one of the firepits or by sipping the winery's Turas bottling, which hits the sweet spot between earthy, fruity, and spicy. If you're a fan of pet-nats, co-fermentation, and funky, experimental wine styles, check out Split Rail Winery. In the tasting room, you might find a Spaghetti Western playing on TV while the Cramps drift through the speakers. Winemaker Jed Glavin uses locally grown grapes and doesn't often make the same wine twice, and he finishes in concrete eggs and sandstone vessels along with the usual oak barrels. Finally, Cinder Wines owner and winemaker Melanie Krause named her winery after the Snake River Valley's volcanic soil. The vast tasting room has outdoor and indoor seating where groups gather for guided wine and chocolate pairings. Buhl: On the eastern tip of the Snake River Valley AVA, Holesinsky Vineyard & Winery makes excellent rosés and a smooth, rich pinot noir. The energy is young and fun, and they host frequent wine-centric events like outdoor movie nights, yoga classes, and a yearly harvest party and grape stomp with live music and food trucks. Boise: Caldwell's Scoria is run by Sydney Nederend, who started planting vines in 2014 (at the age of 21) on her family's volcanic-rich, century-old farmland. She quickly established a local reputation for great grapes. If you can't make it out to the vineyard, check out the tasting room in Boise, which boasts the sleekest design in the city, where groups of relaxed locals hang for hours over bottles of chardonnay and estate merlot. Coiled Wines has a tasting room and production facility in Garden City, but you're better off pulling up to the bar at the downtown tasting room where you can enjoy small plates, happy hour specials, and the vibrant, friendly crowd. Max Schwartz A feast from Ansots in Boise Where to eat Boise: As Idaho's biggest city, Boise is the gravitational center for the state's culinary scene. Just look at Kin, where the tasting menu offers a fresh, modern spin on fine dining, complete with a cocktail hour in the lounge before a seasonal five-course meal with optional wine pairings. White subway tile, velvet banquettes, and floor-to-ceiling windows set the scene over at Trillium, the all-day restaurant inside Boise's Grove Hotel. You can pair your locally sourced bison meatloaf or huckleberry-dressed smoked trout Cobb salad with a great Manhattan or a pick from the Idaho section of the wine list. The Wylder specializes in pizza made with a 50-plus-year-old sourdough starter, veggie sides like cacio e pepe street corn, and excellent cocktails. If you're after some classic meat and potatoes, check out Chandlers, a steakhouse adjacent to Hotel 43, where the move is Snake River Farms American wagyu paired with the restaurant's famed 10-Minute Vesper (submerged in an ice bath to make it extra crisp). Or try local favorite Barbacoa Grill, which specializes in open-fire cooking and tableside theatrics — think made-to-order guacamole and filet mignon served with flaming cognac sauce. Boise Fry Company lets you customize spuds by potato and cut (we like the curly yam fries) and also serves a variety of burgers that range from bison to vegan. Taco lovers have two great options. At the Funky Taco, try the crispy, panko-dusted cauliflower tacos and a plate of fried rice nuggets, which are dressed with shaved fennel, pickled cucumber, mayo, and homemade chile crisp. And at Madre Boutique Taqueria, chef John Cuevas gives tacos his own spin with preparations like sweet and sour carnitas and al pastor with blue cheese and mojo. Although Boise is a hub for meat, Lemon Tree Co. turns out some of area's best plant-based sandwiches, like a massaman curry banh mi with yams and mushroom, or an artichoke cheesesteak. Before relocating to Idaho, Kibrom Milash and Tirhas Hailu operated a restaurant at the Shimelba refugee camp in Ethiopia's northern Tigray region. Now they're serving traditional East African cuisine at Kibrom's Ethiopian & Eritrean, where a veggie plate served with injera is one of the best meals in the city. You can't visit Boise without stopping by the Basque Block. The Ansotegui family of Ansots Basque Chorizos has been in Idaho for more than a century. Their chorizo plate is a must and pairs perfectly with patatas bravas, marinated peppers with anchovies, and a glass of Spanish wine from the well-rounded list. The Basque Market, which sells Basque ingredients and wine, also serves expertly made pintxos, as well as big pans of paella on the patio every Wednesday and Friday at noon. Stop by Bar Gernika's corner patio for a cold beer and the Boise-famous lamb grinder. Max Schwartz Ferments at Kin Remi McManus Bingsoo at Kin In the morning, go for Guru Donuts, where specimens emerge with lightly crisp exteriors and pillowy centers, as well as gluten-free doughnuts made with Idaho potato flour. Ā Cafe serves hearty scrambles and Acme Levain toast topped with avocado and veggies or butter and homemade fruit compote. Come to Neckar Coffee for expertly made cappuccinos, cortados, and pour overs, and don't miss the not-too-sweet house-made oat and buckwheat granola with einkorn berries and white miso. Certified Kitchen and Bakery is known for sandwiches served on pillowy English muffins crafted from a 52-year-old sourdough starter. Kick back for a lazy lunch on the patio at Diablo & Sons Saloon, where you can pair a chimichurri steak salad, crispy chicken sandwich, or oyster and bacon tacos with a glass of Idaho wine. After dinner, stop by the STIL (which stands for Sweetest Things in Life), which serves homemade ice cream with a nice roster of traditional and dairy-free flavors. Don't miss boozy varieties like honey bourbon and red sangria. Meanwhile, pastry chef Moshit Mizrachi-Gabbitas helms the delightful Janjou Pâtisserie, serving croissants, fruit tarts, and flan parisien. When you need a break from wine, head to the Modern Bar for tasty snacks and creative libations, like Midnight to Midnight (like if an Italian amaro met a pineapple daiquiri), and Iceberg Slim (a delicious combo of gin and macadamia nut). Ride a secret elevator to Press & Pony (the bar will send you instructions when you make a reservation) for signature drinks like the Turn Off Your Blinker, made with rye, grapefruit, raspberry-rhubarb oleo-saccharum, Peychaud's bitters, and cherry. Garden City: If you need nourishment while exploring the Greenbelt, Push & Pour has a small but mighty menu of sandwiches, coffee, and other provisions. The iconic Stagecoach Inn hasn't changed much since it opened in 1959, and the restaurant is still known for its crispy hand-breaded prawns, prime rib, and steak and beans. Caldwell and Meridian: If you need to fill up on your way to the Sunnyslope Wine Trail, stop by Amano. The restaurant is inspired by chef-owner Salvador Alamilla's upbringing in Michoacán, Mexico, and Southern California, and it features dishes like mole coloradito and braised lengua tacos, all on tortillas made in house from heirloom Oaxacan corn. The beverage menu leapfrogs between agave spirits and local Idaho wines. Or go for Grit, which serves American comfort food like lemon-brined fried chicken and a bacon-jam grilled cheese on sourdough. Though it's outside the Basque Block, Epi's has been serving Basque food west of Boise for 20 years, since it was founded by sisters Christi and Gina Ansotegui. You can't go wrong with seasonal specials like crab toast or solomo, baked pork loin topped with pimentos, and garlic chips. Twin Falls and Hagerman: It's worth a day trip southeast of town for the scenery (and a visit to Holesinsky Vineyard in Buhl). For a delicious meal with sweeping views of the surrounding area, snag a patio table at Elevation 486, where the menu focuses on steaks, chops, and fish from local purveyors, as well as Idaho wine and spirits. Snake River Grill is known for its alligator bites and Idaho sturgeon. Kin Diners on the grass for PiKINic Where to picnic One of the best things about visiting Boise is getting to experience the surrounding nature, and you don't have to travel far outside the city to enjoy it. Grab breakfast or lunch takeout and a bottle from your favorite winery, and head to one of these locales to enjoy your meal in the great outdoors. Idaho Botanical Garden: Nestled in the Boise foothills, this lush 15-acre garden features beautiful flora, sculptures, and a shaded meditation garden with a koi pond. Camel's Back Park: This 11-acre park has several trail systems, and a short uphill climb offers sweeping views of the city. Esther Simplot Park: Bike or walk along the Boise Greenbelt to reach Esther Simplot Park and Quinn's Pond where you can swim, paddleboard, and kayak. Table Rock Trail: Save this unshaded, 3.7-mile hike for a cool, clear day when you'll be able to catch a breeze and great views of Boise and the surrounding area. Shafer Butte Loop: If you have access to a car, drive one hour north into the Boise National Forest to enjoy this scenic 5.2-mile loop. Modern Hotel & Bar | Facebook The restaurant and bar at Modern Where to stay Boise has a number of great boutique hotels that offer local flavor. The Grove Hotel (starting at $169 per night) features sizable, well-designed rooms, a huge fitness center with lap pool, and one of the best meals in town at lobby restaurant Trillium. Expect friendly service and charming, cozy accommodations at Hotel 43 (starting at $188 per night), which is connected to steakhouse Chandlers (steak and martini room service, anyone?). Modern Hotel and Bar (starting at $93 per night) is a renovated Travelodge with a minimalist, midcentury design, a fabulous complimentary breakfast, and some of the tastiest cocktails in town. Amanda Gabriele is an avid eater, cook, martini lover, and vintage glassware enthusiast. She writes about food, booze, and travel, and you can follow her adventures on Instagram @amandameatballs.

How Chef Stefano Secchi Makes King Crab Girasoli at Michelin-Starred Rezdôra Posted: 23 Nov 2021 06:00 AM PST Secchi brings his own spin on traditional fresh pasta dishes to NYC after years training under some of Italy's best chefs At Michelin-starred Rezdôra, chef Stefano Secchi brings his seven years of training under the best pasta-makers in Emilia-Romagna, including time at Massimo Bottura's famous three-Michelin-starred restaurant Osteria Francescana, to his NYC restaurant. While remaining true to the traditions and methods of fresh pasta making, chef Secchi aims to bring creativity into dishes like in his uovo raviolo — a single giant raviolo with black truffle shavings and a runny egg yolk that oozes out of it when cut. "There's a dish we're trying to bring back, it's [called] girasole, which means sunflower, and it's based on my train ride from Modena to Rimini and seeing sunflowers on the way," says Secchi. "And you eat seafood in Rimini, so we're going to do a beautiful crab with it. It's one of those things I absolutely love." For this dish, Chef Secchi's executive sous chef, Anthony Bellock, steams an enormous Norwegian king crab. When it's ready, the two take the leg meat and head fat, and mix it with marscapone, lemon zest, and other herbs. Chef Secchi then rolls out two sheets of fresh pasta dough — one sheet of classic dough, and one sheet of squid ink pasta dough. He adds dollops of the crab mixture to the classic sheet, and then covers it with the squid ink sheet. He cuts out round shapes with scalloped edges. "This is tedious, right?," he says as he pinches and folds up each corner of each pasta, revealing the yellow color on the bottom and the black color in the middle that resemble a sunflower's colors and shape. "But a pasta like this is something you don't see." "We never opened Rezdôra for the stars," Secchi says. "I really wanted to make things at a really high level like how I was taught, and with the best ingredients I can get my hands on, so that when people sit down, they're like, this is a different experience." Check out the full video to see more pasta-making processes, and to see actor and investor Tony Shalhoub stop by for a taste.

In ‘Succession,’ Food Exists Only to Create More Misery Posted: 22 Nov 2021 02:10 PM PST Macall B. Polay/HBO From threatening doughnuts to bad-tasting biodynamic wine, the Roy family cannot find the joy of eating If you have not yet watched Succession, HBO's prestige drama that follows the Roys, a family of rich media magnates who both hate each other and use each other to feed extreme lusts for power, you're missing out on a show that delights in making something as simple as sitting down for a meal with family — or sipping a glass of wine — an exercise in excruciation. (Season three spoilers to follow.) For the Roys — evil patriarch Logan, petulant (yet desperate to please) children Shiv, Roman, Connor and Kendall, and even dipshit cousin Greg — eating isn't something that feels essential to their existence, and meals are rarely acts of pleasure. They feed on intrigue and the scraps of Logan's meticulously doled-out attention, not pastries and omelets. Instead of offering us a tie to their actual humanity — everyone has to eat, after all — Succession uses every single ortolan and tumbler of scotch to remind us just how miserable this disgustingly wealthy family actually is. That felt especially true in Sunday night's episode, titled "What It Takes." Son-in-law Tom, ready to take the fall for Logan's corporate crimes, spends much of his time fretting over whether or not he'll like the food in prison. He even drags Greg, who could also find himself serving time depending on how the cards fall, to what looks like a perfectly suitable 24-hour diner for a glimpse at what they might eat "on the inside." At the diner, Tom and Greg order omelets and contemplate their futures. As Greg builds up the courage to ask Tom, who's "probably already going" to prison, to take the full blame, the two pick at their plates like two children being forced to eat a pile of boiled spinach. Tom crudely compares the dry, rubbery omelet, which in fairness does look pretty terrible, to a "camel's labia." "It won't taste as good as this either, okay," Tom says of white-collar prison food. "You have to take off 30 to 50 percent of the taste of that endless salty gym mat you're eating there." Tom is not wrong — the food served to incarcerated people is often (literally) inedible garbage — and it's telling that his fixation is on food as he faces incarceration. While the Roys may be able to survive purely on spite, he — a Roy only by marriage — still loves his creature comforts. It's clear that, in the midst of a loveless marriage, a tanking career that's tied to that marriage, and his impending imprisonment, eating luxurious, delicious food is one of the few ways that Tom Wambsgans still experiences joy. Sitting inside his hotel suite with Shiv, Tom pops open a bottle of wine produced by a vineyard the couple owns but have probably never visited. It's a biodynamic wine, which impresses Tom until he sees the screw-on cap. The two taste the wine, describing it as "earthy" and "agricultural," and ultimately conclude that it's just not very good. And again, Tom goes back to his fear that prison food will be too bland for his sophisticated palate. His food obsession even extends to the metaphor he uses to describe having sex with Shiv while she's on birth control — "like throwing so much cake batter at a wall." Previously, Tom has used food as a way to assert his limited power in the Roy family. In the second season's finale, Tom aggressively snatches away a chicken leg from Logan's plate in an act of defiance as he debates whether or not he'd be better off without Shiv, his wife who all but openly hates him. Perhaps that's something he learned from Logan, who has wielded a box of doughnuts as a sort of psy-op against his children before, and brazenly demanded that the vice president of the United States bring him a Coke. Now in its third season, Succession has often relied on mealtimes to exemplify the lack of humanity in its characters. In the first season, there's an excruciating Thanksgiving dinner that cements the family's complex dysfunction. As the Roy family visits their summer palace in the second season, Logan commands the staff to throw out a lavish feast involving king crab legs, lobster, and caviar because it'd been "sitting around in the stink" of a dead raccoon that'd mysteriously found its way into the mansion's chimney. Instead, they eat what looks like shitty Domino's pizza while navigating the minefield that is this awful family dynamic. The Roy family manages to fashion simple experiences like eating a meal with family and surprising someone with pastries into weaponry, and that works beautifully into a narrative that is deeply concerned with the trappings of power and privilege. The Roys have helicopters, vineyards, estates, and access to the world's finest delicacies; they can get away with heinous crimes and pass the responsibility to others as if it's the bad card in a game of Old Maid. But what is such privilege and finery worth when food is flavorless, donuts come at unthinkable strings attached, and you still don't get a kiss from daddy?

Where to Eat and Drink at Cleveland Hopkins International Airport (CLE) Posted: 22 Nov 2021 12:21 PM PST The Brewben Burger at Great Lakes Brewing Company | Great Lakes Brewing Company/Facebook From spicy chicken wings to salty pretzels, here's how to fill up pre-flight Whether you're waiting to take off or lingering for a layover, Cleveland Hopkins International Airport (CLE) has several solid options for dining within the airport. There's a restaurant from Food Network stalwart Michael Symon, as well as a brewpub from the city's most famous brewery, Great Lakes Brewing Company. A few operators are temporarily closed due to the COVID-19 pandemic, but there still are a decent number of operators keeping travelers fed right now. Here's a comprehensive guide to the options available for dining, drinking, and relaxing while at CLE. Find an updated list of offerings on the airport's website as well. Main Terminal Best for a sit-down meal or drink: The Pub A typical airport bar that gets the job done, the Pub has a mix of British dishes, like fish and chips, and more generic bar food, like burgers and Reubens. Best quick bite: Shake Shack (Temporarily closed) Sure, it's a chain, but this New York-based outfit makes some of the best burgers in town, as well as crinkle fries and a mean chicken sandwich. Maybe give Currito a spin right now instead since it's temporarily closed? The rest: Auntie Anne's: The hot pretzel beloved by teens in shopping malls everywhere. Bruegger's Bagels: Serviceable bagel sandwiches. Chick-fil-A: Chicken nuggets and sandwiches with a side of controversy. Cinnabon: Generic calorie-bomb breakfast pastries. Currito: A healthy option for burrito bowls with a global bent, plus smoothies. Good for folks with dietary restrictions. Dunkin' Donuts: Love-it-or-hate-it chain coffee, doughnuts, and mediocre breakfast sandwiches. Embers (across from central checkpoint): Newish sit-down option with an eclectic menu Currito [official photo] A bowl from Curritos in the Cleveland airport Ticketing Best to look elsewhere for food, but find: Subway: Sad chain deli sandwiches, though an option for calorie-counters. Euro Cafe: Basic to-go options like breakfast sandwiches Concourse A This is the weakest of the three gated areas; here, options include: Sammy's Beach Bar & Grill: Island-y food and drink that's skippable unless a mai tai craving hits (Gate A1). 800 Degrees Pizza: Fast-casual pizza chain that cooks things up quickly (Temporarily closed) Starbucks: Ubiquitous for coffee and pastries (Gate A1). Panini's: Overstuffed sandwiches (Gate A6). Concourse B Best sit-down meal: Quaker Steak & Lube (Temporarily closed) This Pennsylvania chain also has outposts around Ohio, including this airport location. The casual restaurant (its decor has a gas-station theme) is best known for its chicken wings and more than 20 available sauces, such as ghost pepper and Asian lemongrass. Since they're closed at the moment, those with some time to sit down should head to another concourse. (Gate B5) Best for drinks: Vino Volo Find cured meats, cheeses, and other snacks at this airport chain, as well as wine flights and pairings, all adding up to a reasonably civilized pre-flight destination. (Gate B2) Official Wings from Quaker Steak The rest: Menchie's Frozen Yogurt: Frozen yogurt with various toppings (across from Gate B6). Another Subway (across from Gate B6) Another Auntie Anne's (Gate B6) Another Inca Tea, but with fewer food options than Concourse C (see below) Concourse C Best sit-down meal: Bar Symon This casual restaurant from chef Michael Symon (Lola's, B-Spot), who rose to national prominence after his turns on The Chew and various Food Network shows, offers drinks and bar food, with Symon's own Cleveland-centric spin. The restaurant makes a better-than-expected bloody mary and some addictive dry-rub wings. Find burgers, pulled pork sandwiches, and pierogies, too. (Between Gates C4-C6) Best for drinks: Great Lakes Brewing Company Cleveland's most famous brewery now has an offshoot of its iconic brewpub at the airport. Expect the beers that have made the company beloved, from the Eliot Ness Amber Lager to the Burning River Pale Ale, plus a limited offering of Eastern European-influenced bar food items (pretzel-crusted chicken, a sausage sampler, bratwurst, pierogi, and more). (Gate C14) The rest: Potbelly: Sandwich chain — the Italian's a good bet here (Gate C28) Wow Bao: A small but pretty decent selection of Asian dishes, with an emphasis on dumplings (across from C8; temporarily closed) Inca Tea Cafe: Coffee, tea, etc. (across from C28) Another Starbucks (Gate C22) Cantina Taqueria & Tequila Bar: Newish options for margaritas, tacos, etc. (temporarily closed) Bar Symon [official photo] Pulled pork sandwich from Bar Symon

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