Eater - All |
- This Is Not a Pint
- How Chefs at LA’s Providence Meticulously Prepare an Oyster Dish
- TikTok’s Wildly Popular Dirty Soda Is Strangely Compelling
- Here Are the 2022 James Beard Awards Restaurant, Chef, and Media Finalists
- Take 30 Percent Off Eater Wine Club at the Strategist’s Two-Day (Actually Good) Sale
- This Restaurant’s Menu Shows It’s Not Just One Chef in Charge
- Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Kohlrabi
- The Skinny Margarita Just Won’t Quit
| Posted: 27 Apr 2022 11:51 AM PDT  Ice cream brands need to stop styling pints with literally twice the amount of ice cream Hey, look, I know the pint is a weird, confusing unit of measurement that complicates the the simple fact that we're talking about 16 fluid ounces — and yet, I'll accept it as "convention." But quick question: When did we normalize advertising pints using literally two pints worth of contents? I'm looking at you, specifically, ice cream industry. Here is an example, courtesy of the Cheesecake Factory. /cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/23420284/cheesecakefactory.jpeg) The Cheesecake Factory And another, this time from the artisanal-leaning Van Leeuwen. /cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/23420378/vanleeuwen.jpeg) Van Leeuwen And yet another from the plant-based Coconut Bliss, the image for which is saved in the brand's online media kit as "EDB-OverflowingPints-VanillaBrownieSwirl" (emphasis mine). /cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/23420276/coconutbliss.jpeg) Coconut Bliss You don't have to be a former ice cream professional like yours truly to see that this is a pint plus at least two more heaping scoops, if not three, and that for ice cream brands across the board, this form of literally over-the-top excess has become the dominant way of conveying that you're selling a pint's worth of ice cream. I'm pretty sure that's not how measurements work! I am well aware of the size of these pints in real life — as well as the fact that these images may simply be digitally composed — but I resent the portrayal of food as wasteful spectacle, as evidenced by the very real 10-pound burgers and one-pound mozzarella sticks. And my initial oohs at the sight of interesting new flavors heaping out of the pint containers always give way to the ick of thinking about the reality of sticky, dripping ice cream. The scoop creep extends beyond ice cream too. As snack expert Andrea Hernandez pointed out while responding to my tweet about this very thing, this overflowing pint aesthetic has tentacled its way into the cookie-dough-by-the-pint niche. And while writing this, I got an ad for Yishi, the Asian dessert-inspired instant oatmeal company, which portrays the heaping pint to an admittedly more restrained extent. The most obvious rationale here is that an accurately filled pint doesn't look very exciting from a photography standpoint, though ice cream brands have certainly found workarounds. Morgenstern's shoots its pints lid-on beside a single plop of melting ice cream, or sliced in half to show a cross-section. Noona's, though it sometimes veers into mountainous, above-pint-level territory, also accepts that we want to see what we're actually getting, which is just a flat pint. Like overflowing TikTok drinks and the whole "Freakshakes" thing, this styling choice is probably also rooted in a desire to catch people's attention, and to dive into the sense of decadence. You're already buying ice cream, so why not make it look especially indulgent? Or something. But please, let's rein it back — we are testing the limits of physics! |
| How Chefs at LA’s Providence Meticulously Prepare an Oyster Dish Posted: 27 Apr 2022 10:12 AM PDT  The first dish on the restaurant's tasting menu uses exactly eight grams of caviar At Los Angeles's two-Michelin-starred seafood restaurant Providence, chef Michael Cimarusti uses only wild-caught fish to make dishes like scallops with black truffle, uni egg, Alaskan king salmon with truffle sauce, and more. The tasting menu kicks off with an oyster topped with golden kaluga caviar. The restaurant gets its oysters from the Hood Canal in Washington State. "It's actually a shigoku oyster that has spent extra time on the bed, about an extra year on the bed, so that they come larger," says Cimarusti. The chefs begin washing the oysters by putting them over ice and running cold water on them, which knocks off the barnacles and any sand that may have accumulated. Next, they rubber band all the oysters shut to make sure that the liquid inside, known as liquor, doesn't leak and can be used in the sauce a little later. The rubber banded oysters are steamed for two and a half minutes and then rested for another minute, which makes them warm, but not too hot. "You can still hold it in your hand," says Cimarusti. "It does enough to set the flesh, so that it has a nice mouth feel." The oysters are put upright on ice, so that the liquor stays in the shell. They're then shucked and returned to the shell. From there, the sauce is made from champagne and cultured butter. They add the extra juice from the oysters into the sauce and exactly eight grams of caviar and fine herbs. "Opening up that caviar a couple times a week and just looking at it, marveling at it, and tasting it, it's different every time," Cimarusti marvels. "It's a magical thing." |
| TikTok’s Wildly Popular Dirty Soda Is Strangely Compelling Posted: 27 Apr 2022 09:51 AM PDT Soda spiked with cream and flavored syrup is growing in popularity thanks to Olivia Rodrigo Despite the anti-sugar fearmongering and our collective obsessions with wellness and hydration, there are still millions of Americans who, at some point every day, drink a soda. And a growing minority of those soda-drinkers are consuming "dirty sodas," a concoction that's trending on TikTok following more than a decade of obsession in Utah. In the mid-2010s, shops slinging "dirty sodas," or fountain sodas spiked with cream, flavored syrups, and other add-ins, started popping up all over Utah. The drinks are similar to Italian sodas, which combine flavored syrups with club soda, but are made with popular soft drinks like Sprite and Diet Coke. Their popularity is owed in large part to Utah's substantial population of Mormons, many of whom do not drink alcoholic beverages or coffee (and other "hot drinks) because they are explicitly prohibited in the religious dogma. "Dirty sodas have become more than a novel beverage; they have enmeshed themselves into the culture of Utah," Michelle Leung wrote for Vice in 2016, as the dirty soda trend was peaking in that state. "Dirty soda shops are where you take the kids after soccer practice, where you go on a first date, where you stop in the morning, and where you go after work to treat yourself after your long day." In the years since Leung's article, these virgin spiked sodas became a bonafide online sensation. Dirty soda shops have proliferated in Utah, and brands like Swig and Sodalicious are now opening a slew of new locations across the country. The genesis of the current TikTok trend can be linked to Gen Z musician Olivia Rodrigo, who posted a photo with a cup from Utah chain Swig in December 2021. Just a few months later, TikTok is now replete with more than 700,000 mentions of the #dirtysoda hashtag, most of which accompany videos of creators showing viewers how to make their own dirty sodas at home. The formula for the original dirty soda, the exact origin of which is hard to pinpoint, is simple: a Diet Coke poured over ice, then spiked with a shot of coconut syrup, lime juice, and half-and-half. Some shops use coconut-flavored coffee creamer instead of the syrup, but the flavor profile is ultimately the same. These days, there are are thousands of different combinations of cream, flavored syrups, fruit, and other add-ins on both soda shop menus and online videos, making this the kind of drink that you can fully customize to suit your preferences. In the interest of science — and after seeing about a thousand TikTok videos on the subject — I grabbed a bottle of Coconut Creme Coffee-Mate at the grocery store on Sunday and set out to make my own dirty soda. I don't drink Diet Coke, which meant that a cold can of Dr. Pepper would have to do. I poured it over ice in a cup, then added a shot of the creamer and squeezed a wedge of lime inside. After mixing the concoction, I was mildly concerned that my drink had curdled, because combining dairy and citrus juice doesn't generally tend to produce good results. With a quick stir, though, the mixture came together nicely and my dirty soda was ready to drink. Taking the first sip, I was a little unsettled by its light tan color, and could still see little speckles of cream that hadn't fully incorporated into the mixture. Upon tasting, though, it actually turned out to be pretty good! The creaminess was nice and the acidity of the lime a pleasing addition to a super-sweet soda. The coconut was arguably a little overpowering, and tasted slightly like sunscreen, but only in that good way that recalls a bright blue snow cone or an Ocean Water at Sonic Drive-In. Adding cream to soda seems a little weird at first, but soda floats have existed for more than a century. Remember a root beer float? Or a purple cow? It's sort of the same thing, only missing a scoop of ice cream. It's sweet and creamy, and makes something as simple as consuming a beverage feel a little bit special, almost like you're enjoying a dessert. But am I totally convinced that dirty sodas are as great as the folks who are religiously prohibited from consuming anything stronger than Coke seem to think? Definitely not. |
| Here Are the 2022 James Beard Awards Restaurant, Chef, and Media Finalists Posted: 27 Apr 2022 08:14 AM PDT  The full list of nominees Today, the James Beard Foundation announced its slate of finalists for its 2022 awards. This short list of nominees honors the year's outstanding restaurants and chefs — the first such list since 2020. In addition to the list of Restaurant and Chef Award finalists, the foundation announced chef and TV host Martin Yan as the winner of the Lifetime Achievement Award and Grace Young as the winner of its Humanitarian of the Year Award for her work supporting Chinatowns and Asian American-owned small businesses. They also announced four Leadership Award winners — Monica Ramirez of Justice for Migrant Women; Irene Li of Mei Mei Dumplings and Prepshift; Erika Allen of Urban Growers Collective; and Mavis-Jay Sanders of Drive Change. The worker-led, Oakland-based restaurant Understory took home the Emerging Leadership award. They join the already-announced America's Classics winners for 2022, which were revealed in February. The semifinalist rollout last month was not without its missteps. While promised changes to the categories, criteria, and voting processes did result in what was easily read as the most diverse — across race, gender, geography, styles of service, and styles of cuisine — in the foundation's history, ultimately names had to be removed from that list due to closures, and one name was added because it had been left off "due to clerical error." The overall sense is that while the changes are in many ways long overdue, they are also not totally comfortable yet for the foundation and its awards committee. Unlike in years past, media nominees were not announced concurrently with the restaurant and chef nominees. Nominees for cookbook, journalism, and other media awards will be revealed in a separate announcement on April 27. The Restaurant and Chef Awards ceremony will take place in Chicago on June 13. Without further ado, here are the nominees: Outstanding RestaurateurA restaurateur who uses their establishment(s) as a vehicle for building community, demonstrates creativity in entrepreneurship, integrity in restaurant operations, and is making efforts to create a sustainable work culture. Eligible candidates must have been in the restaurant business for at least five years and they must not have been nominated for a James Beard Foundation chef award in the past three years. The medallion and a certificate are given to the winning restaurateur or, in the case of a pair or team of restaurateurs who are generally understood to be equal partners in the endeavor, restaurateurs.
Outstanding ChefA chef who sets high culinary standards and has served as a positive example for other food professionals. Eligible candidates must have been working as a chef for three or more consecutive years. The medallion and a certificate are given to the winning chef or, in the case of a pair or team of chefs who are understood to be equal partners in the endeavor, chefs.
Outstanding RestaurantA restaurant that demonstrates consistent excellence in food, atmosphere, hospitality, and operations while contributing positively to its broader community. Eligible candidates must have been in business for five or more consecutive years, not including any time closed due to the pandemic. A certificate is given to the winning restaurant and the medallion, and a certificate are given to the restaurant's principal owner, or General Manager, or Chef, at the discretion of the restaurant.
Emerging ChefA chef who displays exceptional talent, character, and leadership ability, and who is likely to make a significant impact in years to come. No age limit is required. The medallion and a certificate are given to the winning chef.
Best New RestaurantA restaurant opened in 2020 or 2021 that already demonstrates excellence in cuisine and hospitality and seems likely to make a significant impact in years to come. A certificate is given to the winning restaurant, and the medallion and a certificate are given to the restaurant's principal owner, or General Manager, or Chef(s), at the discretion of the restaurant.
Outstanding Pastry Chef
Outstanding Baker
Outstanding HospitalityA restaurant that demonstrates consistent and excellent hospitality and service to its dining community, while also making efforts to provide a sustainable work culture. Eligible candidates have been in operation for five or more years.
Outstanding Wine Program
Outstanding Bar Program
Best Chef: California
Best Chef: Great Lakes (IL, IN, MI, OH)
Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic (DC, DE, MD, NJ, PA, VA)
Best Chef: Midwest (IA, KS, MN, MO, NE, ND, SD, WI)
Best Chef: Mountain (CO, ID, MT, UT, WY)
Best Chef: New York State
Best Chef: Northeast (CT, MA, ME, NH, RI, VT)
Best Chef: Northwest and Pacific (AK, HI, OR, WA)
Best Chef: Southeast (GA, KY, NC, SC, TN, WV)
Best Chef: South (AL, AR, FL, LA, MS, PR)
Best Chef: Southwest (AZ, NM, NV, OK)
Best Chef: Texas
James Beard Foundation Book AwardsBaking and Desserts
Beverage with Recipes
Beverage without Recipes
General
International
Reference, History, and Scholarship
Restaurant and Professional
Single Subject
U.S. Foodways
Vegetable-Focused Cooking
Visuals
Writing
James Beard Foundation Broadcast Media AwardsDocumentary/Docuseries Visual Media
Instructional Visual Media
Reality or Competition Visual Media
Commercial/Sponsored Visual Media
Visual Media — Short Form
Visual Media — Long Form
Social Media Account
Audio Programming
Audio Reporting
James Beard Foundation Journalism AwardsColumns and Newsletters
Dining and Travel
Feature Reporting
Food Coverage in a General Interest Publication
Foodways
Health and Wellness
Home Cooking
Innovative Storytelling
Investigative Reporting
Personal Essay — Long Form
Personal Essay — Short Form
Profile
Jonathan Gold Local Voice Award
Craig Claiborne Distinguished Restaurant Review Award
MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award
Disclosure: Some Vox Media staff members are part of the voting body for the James Beard Foundation Awards. |
| Take 30 Percent Off Eater Wine Club at the Strategist’s Two-Day (Actually Good) Sale Posted: 26 Apr 2022 08:26 AM PDT |
| This Restaurant’s Menu Shows It’s Not Just One Chef in Charge Posted: 26 Apr 2022 07:22 AM PDT  Dirt Candy is synonymous with chef and owner Amanda Cohen. Now, other chefs behind the scenes will get some of the spotlight. When Dirt Candy, chef Amanda Cohen's industry-leading vegetarian restaurant in New York City, introduced its spring menu this month, diners found an interesting new addition. Below three of the five dishes is a line of attribution: Junior sous chef Michaela Duke is credited for the lox-like tower of smoked onions, sous chef Andrew Duong with the verdant celery bowtie pasta, and sous chef Matt Miller with the roasted, stuffed fennel. It reads seamlessly enough to make you wonder why you don't see information like this on menus or social media posts more often — especially in a dining scene in which calling out the contributions of farms, butchers, and ceramicists has become commonplace. Indeed, calls for transparency around dish development have increased over the past few years. Writing for Eater in 2019, Jonathan Kauffman explored the question of intellectual property in dish development, finding that chefs are often unable to take their signature dishes with them when they leave a restaurant. In the Washington Post in 2020 — after the Sqirl mold saga uncovered allegations of unacknowledged staff contributions — now-Whetstone Magazine editor Layla Schlack took this idea a step further: Menu credits could "bring workers to the forefront, potentially amplifying conversations about restaurant labor," she wrote. Since it opened in 2008, Amanda Cohen's Dirt Candy has been at the forefront of big shifts in how the restaurant industry can operate more responsibly and equitably, like plant-based charcuterie and the elimination of tipping. This menu update is "something I've always wanted to do," Cohen says. "I've always tried my best to give as much credit as possible to my staff, tagging them in Instagram and newsletters. This menu was a bit different because it's the first time where I really felt like it was a true collaboration." Eater spoke with Cohen about why she made the switch, and how Dirt Candy's pandemic-spurred revamp has helped her and her staff grow. What was your menu development process like before, and how was it different this time? In general, I would do most of it on my own: come up with the ideas and the vegetables that I wanted to use and test a lot of it by myself. Sometimes people would come up with things to add on to it or we'd go back and forth, but the initial idea and the initial testing started with me. This time, I knew what vegetables we were going to use for spring, and I had a general idea of what I wanted the dishes to be. I told each of my sous chefs [to choose] a vegetable/dish, gave them a general outline, and they ran with it. There was a lot of back-and-forth because it's still Dirt Candy-style so it all has to be of a piece, but they did most of the testing and they came up with a lot of the ideas. Whereas before I would say 95 percent of each dish was me, this time I would say [it was] more like 50-50. Have you seen an approach like this on menus before? I've heard of people doing it before. I don't know if I've seen it or noticed it. I certainly know there has been a movement to give more credit to staff over the last couple of years and I think it's great — it takes an army to run a restaurant. How often do you change your menu, and is this something that you envision you'll be doing on future menus? We change it four times a year. So long as my sous chefs keep participating — and I'm happy to open it up to anybody else on my staff — I would love to continue it. Sometimes when you're the head chef you can feel like you work in a vacuum, so it's nice to be able to collaborate, learn from others, and see what their experience has been and what ideas they have. I'll absolutely give them the credit they deserve. However, maybe [there would be] a time that it would be just me; I'm not just doing this to look good, it has to be truthful. Why do you think being a head chef can feel like you're working in a vacuum? We've revamped the restaurant over the last year. When we simplified the menu, it gave everybody a lot more time to do things. In the past, everybody just felt so overwhelmed. We've tried so hard not to have people work long days, so the only person who really could take on that extra burden to make new dishes was me, and that would come in the in-between moments of everything else. It feels lonely, like I was in the back room by myself during service doing things. Other [chefs de cuisine] of mine had time to certainly give feedback but not necessarily time to really work on dishes, and that's my fault for running this intense restaurant for many years. Post-pandemic, we've really scaled back a lot of what we do, and we only run one menu that's five dishes — a couple extra things here and there — but with the same number of staff that we had beforehand. It's given everybody breathing room to grow as chefs. Do you feel like in sous chef roles, historically, people haven't necessarily been able to create new dishes at Dirt Candy? They've always been welcome to; they haven't had the time — definitely not, I think, in the way we had things set up. There was so much actual work to do, and a lot of times, my sous chefs, pre-pandemic, had to also take on the role of a line cook or prep cook on top of their other duties. We were really struggling with labor issues beforehand; we're pretty fortunate right now that we aren't, and so everybody can do what they were hired to do. What has been the response from diners? Lots of guests have been really excited and they want to know about the process. It's the exact same questions you're asking: Why now? What's the difference? How does the collaboration work? I think by being able to put it on the menu, it's making it obvious that a restaurant is not just one person; it's everybody. Even though I have an open kitchen, by and large most of my guests interact with the front of house. This is a way to really let them understand that the back of house is so integral to the restaurant as well. What has the response been from your sous chefs to seeing their names on the menus? I mean, I hope they're happy. I sent it out in our newsletter, I posted it online, and their moms called them and were pretty excited for them. I think they also can recognize that they're an important part of this restaurant, and hopefully it's given them some confidence to keep trying and experimenting. Is this something that you would like to see at more restaurants? Yeah, absolutely. It's fun to know the names of the people who make your food. It's kind of like watching the end credits of a movie, or when you go see a Broadway show and you see everybody who's worked on the production — I think it's great. This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity. |
| Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Kohlrabi Posted: 26 Apr 2022 06:33 AM PDT  It may not be the most beloved vegetable, but kohlrabi is nutrient-dense, subtly tasty, and belongs in any number of dishes On the list of much-maligned and regretfully misunderstood vegetables, the humble kohlrabi ranks high. A member of the brassica oleracea species of plants, kohlrabi often ends up being the last thing used in the farmers market haul or the dregs of a CSA delivery. Its strange octopus-like shape, abundant leaves, and craggy exterior can confuse even the most competent of cooks. Is it a giant Brussels sprout? A miniature cabbage? Why is it sometimes purple and sometimes green? How do you even… cut it? Like its siblings in the brassica family — broccoli, cauliflower, kale, basically all the fart-y stuff — kohlrabi wears many hats and can be used in an array of delicious meat-focused and vegetarian dishes that are found in many diverse cuisines. It may not look like the most delectable or visually stunning vegetable, but kohlrabi is nutrient-dense, subtly tasty, and worth adding to stews, curries, soups, pickles, and salads. Oh, and you can even eat it on its own — take a smaller springtime kohlrabi, peel back the leaves, and just bite it like an apple. But first, uh, what is kohlrabi? Kohlrabi is a vegetable whose common usage name comes from the German mashup of kohl (cabbage) and rabi (turnip). Neither a cabbage nor a turnip but vaguely reminiscent of both vegetables, kohlrabi is grown annually across several continents, including Europe and South Asia. "Broccoli was selected for really big flower buds, turnips were selected for big roots, kohlrabi was selected for a thick bulbous stem," says Alessandro Ascherio, farm field manager at the Mort Brooks Memorial Farm in Philadelphia. "[The stem] is the part you're eating." Ascherio likens the stem of the kohlrabi to the inner part of the stem of broccoli. "If you've ever met people who are really into eating the inside of the broccoli stem — there's this nice white crunchy part — it's kind of like that," he says. "It's not bitter. It's mild and sweet." Because kohlrabi is a hardy vegetable, it grows in spring and fall, and can even be harvested in winters in the Northeastern part of America. "Kohlrabi sits right on top of the ground. As a farmer, at least where I've been growing, it's one of the reasons I like it so much. I can get away with no cover," Ascherio says. In spring and summer, kohlrabi has a mild and sweeter taste, and the vegetable will typically be smaller in size — more like a baseball than a softball. In fall, it's much larger, and can be woody if grown too big, which is why it frequently ends up in stews and curries, where it can be broken down gently. But as Ascherio says, "even during the winter it excels as a raw vegetable." Have some kohlrabi and don't know what to do with it quite yet? It can be stored for a few weeks or more in the fridge — just check periodically to see that it's not getting too soft. That's usually a sign that it's on the way out. What does kohlrabi taste like? Like many members of the brassica family, kohlrabi is subtly sweet and vaguely peppery when you eat it raw. Its texture is akin to a jicama or a broccoli heart, and the faster-maturing spring varieties can be juicy like apples, though rarely as sweet. Heartier varieties that grow in the fall, when they grow bigger, can have less sweetness and more structure (sometimes flavorless and too fibrous, if you get the wrong one), but they will add peppery, mustard-y flavors to curries and braises, and will soften well in cooked dishes. The leaves on a kohlrabi are also edible, when they're in good shape. "They look almost like small collards or dinosaur kale," Ascherio says. Add those to any soup or stew, or stir-fry them with garlic by themselves for a side of hearty greens to be served alongside any kind of cuisine. /cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/23373932/Kohlrabi_spot.jpg) Sophia Pappas How do you prepare kohlrabi for cooking? Kohlrabi, despite its alien appearance, is not as challenging as, say, a pomegranate, to break down for cooking. The first step in disassembling this occasionally unwieldy vegetable is cutting off the leaves and stems that point out performatively in all directions from the bulb. (Save the leaves for cooking if they look healthy and snappy, but discard if they seem wilted and disheveled.) Slice the base off the bottom of the bulb as you would an eggplant or cabbage, then peel the outer layer with a vegetable peeler until the white interior is exposed. At this point, it's possible to cut your kohlrabi in any way according to the dish you're making. Match sticks work well for fresh salads, chunks for a stew, and strips if you're planning to pickle it with other vegetables (or alone, for that matter). How is kohlrabi used in the kitchen? "Kohlrabi is actually present in Indian cuisine in almost all different regions — South, North, West, and East," says Lopamudra Mishra, cook and writer of the food blog Away in the Kitchen, where Mishra features recipes for Indian home cooking. "If you go to India, you would find it is in most regional cuisines but it's never a star dish. Nobody will say, 'Oh, I love kohlrabi' — except if someone is from Kashmir." In Kashmir, kohlrabi is known as monji haakh — the monji refers to the bulbous part of the vegetable and the haakh the leaves — and it is often cooked with a very simple mix of spices and ingredients. "[Kashmiris] prepare this very basic stew, which hardly has any spices," Mishra says. "It has asafetida, it has a little bit of Kashmiri chili. Sometimes they may use a little bit of ver masala which is like Kashmiri garam masala. It's optional. And that's it." The leaves aren't chopped — they're cleaned and cooked whole with a lot of water, Mishra explains. "It becomes a stew until the kohlrabi is soft and tender but still holds its shape." Kohlrabi can also be cooked German style as a side dish braised in a creamy bechamel sauce. It can be eaten like you would a side of braised cabbage alongside meatballs or schnitzel. There are also preparations in Vietnamese cuisine, like stir-fries and herby salads with pickled daikon and carrots. Kohlrabi shows up in Israeli cuisine, roasted. Because it's such a hearty vegetable that can grow in a range of climates and seasons, and because its flavor is subtle and approachable, there is a recipe for it in more cultures than not. Plus, when the ramps and lacinato kale are all sold out at the market, this ugly little vegetable is almost always there for the taking. Much like cabbage, carrots, and hearty winter vegetables, kohlrabi also pickles well, both in a vinegar preparation with spices and in an oil preparation, found in many Indian cuisines. "You clean the kohlrabi, cut them into cubes, then rub the spices onto the kohlrabi pieces," Mishra says of making a kohlrabi-focused pickle. "Some people also like to slightly cook the kohlrabi but you don't actually need to. You just add the oil. If you are using mustard oil, you heat the oil, then cool it down, and then add it. Add salt. They all will act as fermenting agents." For Mishra, kohlrabi is a great choice for a vegetable to pickle and preserve. "I really like kohlrabi in the pickle form a lot because it has a little bit of sweetness. It's on the sweeter side," Mishra says. "You eat it with rice and dal. It's really handy as a condiment." Ascherio gets excited about eating kohlrabi raw in salads and slaws, or cutting the vegetable into strips and eating it slathered with peanut butter. And of course treating it like an apple is always an option. Whatever you do, though, don't count it out: "I'd say in my experience it remains underappreciated," Ascherio says. "There are a few CSA members who are jazzed about whatever you give them and they're open to preparing it in any way, but I have not see much excitement — much to my chagrin." If you'd like to try cooking with kohlrabi, here are some recipes to get you started: Lopamudra Mishra's Monji Haakh, or kohlrabi cooked in Kashmiri Style Lopamudra Mishra's Kohlrabi Pickle Asaf Doktor's Charcoal-Baked Kohlrabi Romy Gill's Kohlrabi Aloo Sabzi Melissa Clark's Caramelized Kohlrabi Soup Vidya Narayan's Noolkol Poriyal Jennifer McGavin's Kohlrabi in Creamy Sauce Sophia Pappas is a Pittsburgh-based illustrator.
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| The Skinny Margarita Just Won’t Quit Posted: 25 Apr 2022 08:01 AM PDT |
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