Eater - All

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• An Eater’s Guide to the Connecticut Shoreline
• Two Groups in Oklahoma Are Developing a Blueprint for Successful Queer-Owned Restaurants
• LA’s Honey’s Kettle Has Been Perfecting the Art of Fried Chicken for 40 Years 
• Just Bring a Dip

An Eater’s Guide to the Connecticut Shoreline Posted: 01 Jun 2022 08:09 AM PDT East Lyme, Connecticut. | DenisTangneyJr/Getty Images Skip overpriced areas like the Hamptons and Cape Cod, and spend your summer with Connecticut's beachside clam shacks, throwback ice cream parlors, and classic apizza parlors As high temperatures and sticky humidity descend upon the East Coast each summer, residents start looking for places to escape the crowds, the smells, and the sweat. New Yorkers head to the Hamptons, Bostonians flood Cape Cod and Nantucket, and Rhode Islanders turn to Newport — but the popularity of these seaside refuges comes at a cost, literally. The prices in the Hamptons, Cape Cod, and Newport are sky-high during the peak season, and these buzzy hotspots can't always deliver the soothing outdoor escapes and fresh seafood that made them popular in the first place. The peaceful, warm-weather getaway still exists in Connecticut, on a 100-mile stretch of shoreline running from Greenwich in the west to Mystic in the east. Compared to other seaside retreats, the crowds are a little thinner, the air a little clearer, and the fresh-caught clams a little, well, fresher. Just an hour or two on MetroNorth from Grand Central Station, or the same by car from Boston or Providence, the Connecticut shore does draw in its fair share of visitors for public beaches, golf courses, vineyards and breweries, and B&Bs. Growing up in the beachfront town of Madison, I'd roll my eyes in typical teenage fashion when the "summer people" would start trickling into town after Memorial Day. But the return of these seasonal invaders also signaled a season of fun, from Good Humor ice cream trucks to roasting clams over beach bonfires — and there were never so many visitors that they killed the humble beach town vibe. If you want overpriced mimosas, subpar seafood, and stiflingly packed beaches, go to the Hamptons. If you want to chill out with some apizza and a proper, buttery lobster roll, head to Connecticut. Knot Norm's Lobster Roll at Knot Norm's John Shyloski Outside Sift Bakery What is Connecticut shoreline cuisine? The culinary reputation of the Connecticut shoreline hinges on seafood. The Long Island Sound (the estuary that separates southern Connecticut from Long Island's North Fork) is a prime body of water for clams, served whole, fried, and in rolls at countless local clam shacks, and for lobster, which ends up in the Nutmeg State's classic lobster roll (though, as climate change makes it increasingly difficult to get a decent lobster crop out of the Sound, many restaurants import their meat from Maine). Unlike its cold, mayo-heavy Maine cousin, the Connecticut lobster roll showcases the natural flavor of lobster meat, which is served hot, nestled in a New England style hot dog bun (sliced on the top, not the side), and drizzled with warm butter. Aquatic eats aside, no conversation about the coastal Connecticut food scene would be complete without a mention of the area's most famous dish: New Haven-style apizza. Brought to New Haven by Neapolitan immigrants in the early 20th century, apizza refers to very thin-crusted, slightly asymmetrical pies cooked in blisteringly-hot brick ovens. The crust takes on a charred color and flavor, topped with tomato sauce and a light sprinkling of cheese (unless you request extra "mootz"). Of particular note is the white clam apizza, largely considered New Haven's signature, which eschews the typical tomato sauce in favor of a sauceless white crust topped with juicy clams, plenty of garlic and olive oil, and a dusting of mozzarella and pecorino Romano. What to know before you go Clam shacks: Local clam shacks can be found all over the shoreline region serving whole clams, fried clam strips, and clam rolls. The vibe at these eateries is beach-bum casual; think swim trunks, flip flops, kids with sand buckets, and adults taking advantage of common BYOB policies. Most shacks are located within a mile of public beaches to refuel beachgoers after a long day of swimming and sunbathing. Lenny & Joe's Fish Tale in Madison is a prime example of the form not far from the state's largest public beach, Hammonasset Beach State Park. The shack serves some of the 3 million guests who visit the beach every year and pack into outdoor picnic tables to enjoy a menu of locally sourced "greatest hits" like clam strips, seared scallops, and clam chowder. Food Truck Paradise: A large contingent of food trucks gather across from Long Wharf Pier on a stretch of I-95 in New Haven. The assortment of over two dozen trucks features a diverse range of Latin American foods, including Cubanos, pupusas, and empanadas. But the gathering is most famous for its tacos; some of the best can be found at Ixtapa, El Azteca 2, Tacos La Patrona, and Mexicalli Black Truck. Fishing: Sailors love the Long Island Sound's relatively small size, navigable tides, and plentiful ports. For summer fishermen, the Sound offers the chance to catch bluefish, striped bass, and black sea bass, while shellfish diggers can find several species of clams, horseshoe crabs, and scallops. There are many marinas for motorboats and sailboats of all sizes for anyone wanting to spend a summer day on the water, including highly rated options like Cedar Island Marina in Clinton, Mystic River Marina in Mystic, Norwalk Cove Marina in Norwalk, Three Belles Marina in Niantic, and Harbor Point Marinas in Stamford. Town greens: Many of the towns in shoreline Connecticut feature a village green — a large, centrally located, open green space similar to a park. Town greens appear throughout New England (the Boston Common is arguably the most famous). Southern Connecticut's greens all make for scenic picnic locales, and they're great for picturesque walks before sitting down to a meal at a nearby restaurant. Connecticut's best-known example is the New Haven Green, right next door to the Yale campus and home to popular local restaurants like farm-to-table brasserie Zinc and trendy burger bar Prime 16. However, our vote for best shoreline green goes to the Guilford Green, an expansive and beautifully landscaped town square in the heart of Guilford, where you can find French-inspired patisserie Hen & Heifer, plant-based cafe Three Girls Vegan Downtown, and laidback American restaurant and sandwich spot Chapter One. Lenny & Joe's Fish Tale Clam dinner at Lenny & Joe's Fish Tale Where to eat Fairfield County: The majority of Connecticut-based commuters into New York live in Fairfield County, so there's plenty of money to fuel some of Connecticut's most celebrated eateries. Check out seafood shack and Connecticut lobster roll destination Knot Norm's in Norwalk, beloved high-end seafood restaurant and raw bar the Whelk in Westport, artisanal bakery (and sourdough specialists) Flour Water Salt Bread in Darien, historic pub Colony Grill in Stamford known for its cracker-crust "bar pizza pies," and seafood-forward Vietnamese bistro Mama Chow in Fairfield. New Haven: The historic home of Yale University, New Haven is also one of the shoreline's biggest urban centers and is the state's undeniable hotspot for pizza. New Haven apizza fiends focus on the holy trinity of Frank Pepe's Pizzeria Napoletana, Sally's Apizza, and Modern Apizza. Frank Pepe's claim to have invented the white clam apizza, but all three pizzerias do the style well, churning out pies from exemplary brick ovens. Other highlights of the scene include high-end French brasserie (and popular date spot) Union League Cafe, long-standing vegetarian enclave Claire's Corner Copia, charming bookstore cafe and sandwich shop Atticus, iconic burger spot Louis' Lunch (which was, according to legend, the first American restaurant to serve a hamburger), and falafel joint Mamoun's imported from New York. Branford, Guilford, and Madison: The shoreline towns just east of New Haven have a more relaxed vibe than their western cousins, and they fully embrace the powerful appeal of the casual seafood shack where there's sand on the floor and customers show up in their swimsuits. Those eager to get their hands on a Connecticut lobster roll will find perfectly warm and buttery versions at the Guilford Lobster Pound. The Place in Guilford is a beloved seasonal destination for seafood lovers, who can sit around on tree stumps enjoying fresh-caught, fire-roasted fish, clams, and lobster. For upscale meals close to the water, try French-inspired bistro and wine bar Bar Bouchée in Madison or classic Italian trattoria LoMonaco's Ristorante in Branford. Shoreline coffee enthusiasts flock to Willoughby's, a local roaster with outposts in Madison, Branford, and New Haven. Ashley's Ice Cream in Guilford has been an area favorite for cold treats for decades, while relatively new operation Tutter's Treats in Madison channels some of the same old-school energy with their mid-century ice cream truck and menu of soft-serve cones, root beer floats, and malted milkshakes. Clinton, Old Saybrook, and Essex: These central shoreline towns are perched between the Long Island Sound and the Connecticut River, with plenty of good eating to do in between at rustic fish shacks and lobster roll hotspots. Check out Lobster Landing in Clinton; modern American, seafood-focused dock restaurant Carlson's Landing in Essex; and French bakery and brunch spot Cocotte as well as New American bar and bistro Rosemary & Sage in Old Saybrook. Mystic: The easternmost stretch of the Connecticut shoreline, which borders Rhode Island, contains a region well-known for its port-town charm and as Julia Roberts's fictional home in Mystic Pizza. Yes, Mystic, Connecticut, is a real village within the shoreline town of Stonington, and Mystic Pizza is indeed an operational pizzeria — but don't let that stop you from checking out the other worthwhile eateries in and around town, like trendy artisanal bakeshop Sift, chic modern American restaurant and oyster bar the Shipwright's Daughter, and locally adored taco spot and frozen marg destination Taquerio. Visit New Haven Food Truck Paradise Carlson's Landing Inside Carlson's Landing Where to drink The Connecticut Wine Trail: Vintners have been growing grapes in the Nutmeg State for decades, and many populate the Connecticut Wine Trail: 23 wineries with tasting rooms and tours. Some notable stops along the shoreline include Chamard Vineyards in Clinton (a vineyard that grows chardonnay and riesling, and features an on-site bistro serving French-American fare), Stonington Vineyards in Stonington (which makes French-style wines with estate-grown chardonnay and cabernet franc), and Bishop's Orchards Winery in Guilford (which specializes in fruit wines and ciders made with apples, raspberries, peaches, pears, and blueberries grown on site). Stratford: Beer enthusiasts in Connecticut agree that the eastern Fairfield County city of Stratford is the place to go for quality local suds. The biggest name is Two Roads Brewing, a craft brewery and tasting room renowned for its flagship IPAs and popular seasonal releases. Athletic Brewing, a newer craft operation making a huge splash in the non-alcoholic beer market, is also based in Stratford. Branford: Waterfront brewery Stony Creek Brewing has an impeccable reputation among Connecticut beer drinkers, and bar and restaurant owners. The brewery offers a wide array of styles, including hazy IPAs, smooth lagers, tangy sour ales, and rich porters. It makes a pleasant day trip, with abundant outdoor seating and an on-site New Haven-style pizza truck. Lenny & Joe's Fish Tale Lenny & Joe's Fish Tale Where to stay Madison Beach Hotel A beautiful luxury hotel and spa overlooking the Sound, the Madison Beach Hotel in Madison is steps from the beach and a relatively quick one-mile walk to the heart of downtown. Many of the guest rooms include verandas with direct ocean views, and the spa offers hot stone massages, exfoliating scrubs, and mud masks. The hotel is also home to the Wharf, an upscale-casual restaurant serving seasonal and local seafood. Rooms start at $195/night. Saybrook Point Resort & Marina Boaters can easily launch into the water from the Saybrook Point Resort's on-site marina. The oceanfront hotel features standard rooms, suites, and separate guest houses, along with a full-service spa and the Fresh Salt restaurant, which features a raw bar and a Mediterranean-influenced seasonal American menu. Rooms start at $265/night. Delamar Greenwich Harbor For a shoreline vacation with French Riviera vibes, consider this luxe, European-style resort directly on the harbor in Greenwich. Boaters appreciate Delamar's 500 feet of private dock space, while guests who prefer to stay on dry land can enjoy the spa, spacious and dog-friendly rooms, and celebrated Southern French restaurant L'Escale. Rooms start at $329/night. Griswold Inn A landmark hotel in Essex that's been operating since 1776, the Griswold Inn has become something of a de facto community center for central shoreliners, fondly referred to as "the Gris." For guests, there are comfortable rooms packed with bits of old-timey flair, but the action is down in the tavern and taproom, where you'll find pub grub, local beers, and the locals themselves. Rooms start at $220/night. Taylor Tobin is a freelance food and lifestyle writer (with bylines at HuffPost, Insider, VinePair, Wine Enthusiast, and Allrecipes, among others) who currently lives in Austin but grew up in the shoreline town of Madison, Connecticut. She spends at least three months a year with family on the shoreline to visit her favorite clam shacks, apizza places, and breweries on a regular basis.

Two Groups in Oklahoma Are Developing a Blueprint for Successful Queer-Owned Restaurants Posted: 01 Jun 2022 07:13 AM PDT The bar at the Other Room. | Humankind Hospitality Block by block, 84 Hospitality and Humankind Hospitality built a queer-friendly community in a state that consistently challenges LGBTQ rights A decade ago, Oklahoma City's queer scene consisted of a few gay bars and longstanding gay institution Hotel Habana (since renamed the District) squeezed into the 39th Street Entertainment District. Then 84 Hospitality and Humankind Hospitality, two of Oklahoma City's most prolific restaurant groups that just so happen to be queer-owned, went on expansive tears across OKC. While the city's LGBTQ community hasn't yet achieved the national recognition of loud-and-proud hubs like the Mission in San Francisco or Chicago's Northalsted, these two groups have quickly grown into local powerhouses — and their rise could offer a blueprint for building queer restaurant communities elsewhere. It started in 2009 when Humankind opened Picasso Cafe, which quickly turned into a veritable Cheers for vegan-curious queers. The group has since become synonymous with the gallery-filled Paseo Arts neighborhood, an enclave that's come to feel like an approachable alternative to the clubbier gayborhood. The area now includes Humankind's drag brunch go-to the Other Room right next door to Picasso, desert-chic Frida Southwest down the street, and Baja-inspired OSO Paseo around the corner in the Pueblo at Paseo development. Meanwhile, 84 Hospitality began their own streak in 2013 with Empire Slice House, a garage-like hipster haunt bedecked with Freddie Mercury posters and vintage movie art, eventually expanding throughout the city with buzzy Revolucion, grungy Burger Punk, and hip Goro Ramen, before coming full-circle with Neon Coffee, which serves peanut butter bomb iced lattes and BLT doughnut sandwiches across the street from the original pizzeria. At their core, these groups have a simple, essential role to fulfill as queer-owned businesses in the region: providing shelter in a state downright hostile to LGBTQ rights. The state ranks as one of the worst in the nation for LGBTQ equality, where anti-trans legislation and discrimination are far too frequent. In April, the state senate filed a bill that echoes Florida's so-called Don't Say Gay bill, which would ban books from school libraries that focus on "the study of sex, sexual lifestyles, or sexual activity." In a market that's less dense and innately queer than, say, West Hollywood, there's more of a need for queer refuge in spaces like restaurants, where diners feel seen by like-minded proprietors and employees. "On one level, [Oklahoma City] has always kinda been a haven for LGBTQ kids," says Greg Horton, a seasoned local food writer at Oklahoma City's 405 Magazine. "These companies have done a good job of making LGBTQ kids and their employees feel safe, and they've been vocal about it the whole time." 84 Hospitality Burger from Burger Punk. 84 Hospitality Doughnuts from Neon Coffee. But 84 and Humankind haven't just survived in a hostile environment. They've thrived. The late night scene in the city's formerly dingy gayborhood once felt fragmented, narrow, and exclusionary. Alternatively, 84 and Humankind have focused on broad appeal, allowing them to create a dozen sturdy neighborhood cornerstones between them, even as scenes in more famously queer-friendly cities have buckled under financial strains accelerated by the pandemic. The places where queer people can comfortably convene over New York-style pizza, vegan meatloaf, or hot chicken are also restaurants where loyal regulars dine multiple times a week and employees recruit their friends to join the staff. "Everyone that walks in that door is family," says Seth Lewis, Festival of the Arts director with the Arts Council of Oklahoma City and a regular at Humankind restaurants. "A lot of people struggle with feeling welcomed and appreciated and loved in life, and if you can get that sense of acknowledgement while you're dining somewhere, that's a warmth. It's a sense of feeling like you belong." That impulse toward stewardship and community-building extends beyond their customer base to include the whole neighborhood. "Whenever we create concepts, I ask myself three questions: Is this something I'm passionate about? Is it unique? Does it benefit our community or neighborhood around us?" says CEO Rachel Cope of 84 Hospitality. "That's what it's really about: being a positive impact on the place where we are." "While we know we've been something special for over a decade, we try not to discount what came before us," says Kindt Steven Myers, vice president of Humankind. "We consider ourselves stewards of the neighborhood. We're caretakers there." Myers says they always try to reach out to the neighborhood first with employment opportunities and keep the restaurants open for long hours so they become reliable pillars of the dining scene. "We joke that we're like the post office, open good or bad, rain or shine, snow or sleet," he adds. When the group opened Frida in 2014 on a vacant lot, Myers says they worked to outbid other parties "who might not have the same vision of spurring good things in the Paseo," securing the space before even deciding on a concept. The group eventually settled on opening an elegant new American Southwest chophouse inspired by the Spanish revival architecture of the Paseo and Santa Fe, another artsy city that has inspired Humankind leadership. The organic growth continued with the casual OSO and a soon-to-come bar called Flamingo Tiki. "We're trying to be intelligent and trepidatious in a positive way, to take good care of our neighborhood. Investing in our people and our community is what's most important," Myers adds. Despite Oklahoma's anti-LGBTQ legislation, there are advantages to setting up shop in the capital, which is far more moderate than the rest of the state. There's been a wave of broader interest in Oklahoma City, which has recently ballooned in population and popularity. Lending Tree ranked Oklahoma City as the American city most likely to make a full recovery from the pandemic, and out-of-staters moving in find Oklahoma City is far more affordable than urban centers on the coast, markets where gay bars have been getting priced out for years. The fast-growing metropolis remains malleable as it discovers its own identity and adapts influences from new — and more diverse — residents. The queer community has the numbers to guide that process; Myers notes that rural queer people have been gravitating to the city for the past several decades. "The reality is that we have elected officials that are outright antagonistic to our rights to live freely and fully as we are. But at the same time, there's this quiet but powerful movement building for and by the people, without the permission of our elected government, and in ways that demonstrate the limitations of our elected government," says Allie Phillips-Shinn, former executive director of Freedom Oklahoma, deputy director of ACLU of Oklahoma, and wife of Elemental Coffee's Laura Phillips. "The things that make it so challenging to live in Oklahoma also make it so special; they make these spaces a necessity, and allow them to be so successful and operate so sustainably." Humankind Hospitality Inside Picasso Cafe. For Cope, building strength means aligning with as many LGBTQ organizations as possible, including OKC Pride Alliance Youth Nights at Factory Obscura, and being a headlining sponsor at OKC Pride. Empire also delivered free pizzas to Julius Jones supporters holding ground at the Oklahoma State Capitol. "I think that people underestimate the impact that being a community player can have on your business," she says. "It doesn't have to be a financial donation. It can be your time, or spreading the word about things. That's been key for us, just getting out there and getting to know people, and that's something that everyone can do." "84 is always doing something for the community," echoes Phillips-Shinn. "Thinking of these moments where we have activists camping out in the capitol, relentless in their pursuit of justice, and the thing that allowed them to stay and demand what we need was the pizza that kept showing up from Empire, or the coffee that came from Elemental, or the food that Humankind is bringing for these spaces." Ultimately, she explains, these restaurant owners remember their roots, acknowledge the value of giving back, and help pave the way for further progress. "A healthy city has a safe and flourishing queer community, and spaces for that community to grow, interact with one another, love one another, and find community with one another. They're not just an integral part [of a city]; they're essential to it," Phillips-Shin says. "This is something we've desperately needed, and they had the vision to know that when they built it, we would come. The community was there. We just needed the physical space to fill." The right factors may have been present in Oklahoma City for the queer community to flourish, but the city isn't unique. Empire Slice House just opened another location in Tulsa, marking 84's first foray outside of OKC, with another slice shop planned for suburban Edmond. The state's largest city — and its political epicenter — has served as the perfect launching pad for the queer restaurant community. Oklahoma City is just the beginning. A recent transplant to Oklahoma City, Matt Kirouac is a food and travel writer whose bylines have appeared in Thrillist, Condé Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure, and Tasting Table.

LA’s Honey’s Kettle Has Been Perfecting the Art of Fried Chicken for 40 Years  Posted: 01 Jun 2022 07:00 AM PDT Chef Vincent Williams churns out 50,000 pieces of freshly fried birds for eager diners each week at his Culver City restaurant "I didn't invent fried chicken, the thing I did was perfected it," says Honey's Kettle owner and chef Vincent Williams, who has been mastering the art of crispy, juicy fried chicken over the last 40 years. Inspired by colonial-style frying, his restaurant serves 50,000 pieces of fresh fried birds per week to the hungry residents of Los Angeles. Williams's son Trenton also works at the restaurant, where he leads everything from marinating and storing the fresh chicken that comes in directly from a local farm, to preparing the batter to a perfectly "milkshake-like" consistency, to frying the pieces to crunchy, golden perfection. "He's an amazing chef, truly amazing," says Willams. The 66-year-old restaurateur seems to beam with pride - over his son, his business, but also in the legacy of Black cooking traditions — those of his own family, as well as other Black families that cooked around kettles for generations. "We're American food," says Williams, citing his research on early American colonial cooking at the local library in preparation for opening the restaurant. "Kettles were in the family fireplace, and guess who was in the kitchen? They all were the color of my skin. They were the cooks," he says with honor. "Our people are very good at flavoring food." While many variables at the restaurant impact flavor — the freshness of the chicken, the ratio of water to flower for the batter, the quality of the oil, and more — it's hard to look past the idea that William's devotion to his craft is ultimately what makes his chicken so highly coveted. "It was my passion to deliver a product that would last for generations of time," he says. "We're seeing this resurgence of chicken because some people really know how to do it, and we're one of those people." Check out the full video to see the entire process of making fried chicken at Honey's Kettle.

Just Bring a Dip Posted: 01 Jun 2022 06:33 AM PDT Roshi Rouzbehani/Eater As a potluck contribution, dips have gotten a bad rap. But given a chance, they can be the stars of the show. A little while ago, a couple of friends came over to my house with about three cooler bags' worth of options for both drinking and snacking. Only four of us would be there, but one of these friends suffers from the condition of being too generous and occasionally indecisive. So he thought he'd just bring a bunch of stuff — including several brands of canned hard seltzer, a lemon meringue pie, and a bag of garlic pretzels, if I'm remembering correctly — and see how things shook out. As is customary, there was also a container of hummus — but also another container of crazy feta, a spicy jalapeno feta dip made by Cava. As we unpacked the bags, I remember thinking, hey, this is a cool move. What if we just ate several dips for dinner? Why don't people bring more dips to my house? Dips as a party contribution have gotten a bad reputation. No matter the party you're hosting, or the party you're going to, there will almost always be that sad plastic container of hummus hiding on the appetizer table, waiting for someone to jam a broccoli floret into it. Years of putting these containers of dried-out, half-eaten hummus into my fridge during party cleanup made me believe packaged dips are always going to be a little bit of a bummer, and maybe we should just leave them at home. But then my friend brought over that crazy feta. And I realized, with my stomach full of it, that when you let them shine, dips can very well be — and very often are — the stars of the show. Some of humanity's best foods are versions of dips: tzatziki, hummus, guacamole, hot crab dip. Dips are versatile, travel well, and can be stored in the fridge and revisited for many days post-party. They can be used as sandwich dressing between cold cuts and vegetables, or dolloped on top of a salad. Dips are welcome cargo for all manner of good vehicles, like El Ranchero tortilla chips, crisp celery stalks, or torn scraps of bread. So if someone brings a couple good ones to your house for a cookout, consider yourself a lucky person. Your guests are going to be very pleased by the variety of foods to taste, and you will have lunch for days. Plus, most dips can be served cold or hot, so there's no need to worry about turning on the oven. Just make sure that there is always at least more than one dip. So this summer, don't look down on dip. In fact, the next time you're invited to a barbecue or a picnic, just bring dips. You won't have to worry about boiling a hundred potatoes or washing salad greens or waiting 24 hours for those popsicles to freeze. You can simply buy or make a nice variety of dips, portioned into individual Tupperwares that handily double as serving vessels. Pair up with a friend and tell them to bring along their ideal dip accompaniment, and it'll be like the award-winning couple's costume you did that one year. The more often you become the designated dip person at the party, the more often you make a dip worth serving next to a barbecue chicken drumstick, the less often that sad plastic container of hummus is going to show up alone on the appetizer table. Dips deserve respect, and it's time to give it to them. Roshi Rouzbehani is an editorial and portrait illustrator from Iran living in London.

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