The word presidio suggests a fortress or military post, much like the historic one in San Francisco. Although the Spanish Empire included Arizona within its territory, the colonial influence was never felt in Phoenix the same way it was in Tucson and southern portions of the state. That historical detail has not stopped a popular Mexican restaurant named Presidio Cocina Mexicana from thriving in a Thomas Road strip mall. Even if the name is architecturally incongruous, the food is true to the traditions of Mexico, particularly the state of Michoacán.
mole enchiladas
This small version of a presidio is found on the south side of Thomas, directly across from St. Joseph's hospital, about five blocks west of the Thomas/Central light rail in Midtown. Despite the location in an area rich in both bike lanes and health facilities, this shopping center lacks a single bike rack, so some improvisation is required if traveling on two wheels. There is one nice development, though: two parking spaces in front of the restaurant have been transformed into an outdoor dining area, a pandemic adaptation made permanent.
trio of tacos with a side of street corn
That patio is especially valuable since the interior is essentially a shoebox. A few tables face windows up front, but many more line a corridor leading past the bar and open kitchen. The yellow-gold walls are adorned with some mirrors and decorative tile, but the decor is generally restrained. The emphasis here is clearly on the food, a blend of popular favorites and interior Mexican traditions, served in the context of a family-owned restaurant designed to create a comfortable environment that complements nearby historic neighborhoods.
chili verde
The appetizer selection includes a robust, zesty guacamole in which avocado is mixed with roasted poblano peppers and minced red onion before being topped with salt, lime juice, and cotija cheese. Another dip suitable for tortilla chips is the queso fundido, a four cheese blend with crumbles of chorizo. The street corn, or elote, is generously seasoned with chipotle mayonnaise, cotija, and chile. While it is offered as a starter, it can also serve as an upgraded side dish on many of the entrees, including Presidio's popular taco platters.
pozole
Those tacos can be ordered a la carte, or in a trio with corn or rice and beans as sides. The nine fillings offered are all effective in tortillas, and three stand out in particular: cochinita pibil, tangy seasoned pork with red onions; barbacoa, finely minced and slow cooked beef; , and breaded fish slaw and white sauce. The flautas, a trio of three crispy rolled tacos stuffed with chicken, are essentially the same item as the taquitos offered on the appetizer menu, the one difference being that the entree version adds sides of rice and beans.
carne asada plate
Hearty main dishes include a carne asada plate, presented as a marbled ribeye steak topped with onions and peppers. An enhanced version offered at dinner adds a chile relleno and chorizo to the platter. Enchiladas of chicken or cheese can be ordered with red or green sauce or an upgraded version with a rich, dark mole that seems a bit sweet at first but then gradually build to a slow burn with successive mouthfuls. An even more intense level of spice is found in the torta ahogada, a sandwich of tender carnitas doused in a fiery sauce.
torta ahogada
Presidio keeps the fire burning with two meals in a bowl that are offered every day. The chili verde is a pork stew in a tomatillo-based sauce with a bit of crema and cotija to mitigate some of the dish's more incendiary tendencies. The pozole is a red version of the popular mix of meat and hominy with customary garnishes of radish, onions, cilantro, and cabbage. Both dishes come with corn tortillas to soak up the flavorful broths. For customers seeking a lighter meal, the cilantro lime salad is topped with black beans and a choice of meat.
flautas
Additional entree choices include a chile relleno, a poblano pepper stuffed with cheese and topped with salsa, and a quesadilla roja con chicharron filled with crispy pork belly. The restaurant also has a breakfast and brunch menu with classic Mexican American choices like huevos rancheros and chilaquiles. A signature dish for the morning meal is the Presidio tacos, tortillas filled with a mixture of eggs, chorizo, and potatoes and accessorized with crema, cotija, onion, and cilantro. Burritos and omelets featuring chorizo are also available.
cilantro lime salad with steak
There is no printed dessert menu, but if one asks, Presidio serves a supple and filling flan, as well as buñuelos, fried dough fritters in a shape that approximates a Christmas tree star, and Mexican wedding cookies generously dusted with powdered sugar. The small bar serves margaritas and other tequila-based cocktails in addition to wine, sangria, and beer. A drink unique to Presidio is the Purepecha with a Michoacán name and color and flavor from guava. Horchata and jamaica are the strongest of the beverages without alcohol.
flan
This section of Midtown, as well as adjacent historic districts like Willo, does not have as strong an Hispanic heritage reflected in its restaurant scene as some other parts of the city. Nevertheless, this being Arizona, it's seen as almost mandatory that every part of town have at least one decent Mexican restaurant. In this case, Presidio goes well beyond that minimum level of fulfillment to offer an experience that is not only an easy default for Willo residents and Midtown workers, but also a worthwhile destination closer than Michoacán,
519 W. Thomas Rd,. Phoenix AZ 85013
https://www.presidiophx.com
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