A longstanding tradition, at least until 2016, was for a Presidential visit to Phoenix to involve a stop for Mexican food at a local restaurant. Barack Obama once dined at the iconic Midtown Macayo's, which has long since been demolished, and George W. Bush enjoyed an enchilada combo at Tee Pee near Arcadia. For their predecessor Bill Clinton, the destination was Poncho's in South Phoenix. This was pre-vegan Clinton, so the President chose an indulgent appetizer platter of two mini-tacos, two mini-chimichangas, two mini-tamales, and a side of beans.
Crudo Burro with rice
A quarter century later, Poncho's is still operating at the same location, just as it did for decades prior to Clinton's visit. The standalone restaurant, which originated as the owners' family home, is a quarter mile north of the light rail station under construction at Baseline and Central. After an extended pandemic closure and gradual return to normal operating conditions, the restaurant has reopened for business, restored its lunch and dinner hours, and renovated its dining rooms. Unfortunately, no bike racks, an amenity much needed in this part of town, have been added.
enchilada plate
The remodeling of the restaurant's dining area added a fresh coat of paint and brighter look but left the building's character intact. Depending on how exactly one counts, there are about six distinct dining areas. A long foyer leads to a host station. Behind there lies the largest of the dining rooms, but several more are found in all directions, and each has a distinctive look and feel. One room celebrates the heritage of the Vasquez family, who founded and continue to operate the restaurant. Another memorializes Cinton's visit with a mural of the 42nd President.
tostada verde
Even with the updated decor, there has been little change to the menu, which retains the same strengths and weaknesses as it has had for over a half century. The food at Poncho's could be best described as Arizona-Sonoran comfort food. That means big platters with rice and beans, plenty of melted yellow cheese, and meat choices that can be summarized as "beef or chicken." There are some vegetarian choices, but virtually no presence of pork or seafood, despite the key role those protein sources play in the cuisines of both interior and coastal Mexico.
pollo fundido
The appetizer assortment that Bill Clinton enjoyed back in the '90s persists today and is known as the La Fiesta Chiquita. It's a testament to some of the most popular menu items, all of them rendered in smaller formats than in their entree equivalents. Of course, there are complimentary chips and salsa at each table, with the latter item being a mild red version. An inquiry about a secret hotter salsa, a reality at many restaurants like Poncho's, is met with the response that the default salsa is the hot one. Other choices include avocado and a green tomatillo salsa.
taco combo
The "Especialidades de Ponchos" section of the menu includes some successes like the Sonoran enchiladas, masa patties that are fried and then covered in enchilada sauce with diced onions and sliced olives with option to add red or green chili beef. These hearty patties attain a balance between the underlying crispness of the masa and the tender meat and smooth sauce. The fajitas, on the other hand, fall short of expectations. There is no sizzling platter. That in itself is not damning, but the thin, dark sauce, reminiscent of soy, is out of place and unsatisfying.
Sonoran enchilada con carne
A more consistent section of the menu is labeled "Favoritas de la Casa," and it's a collection of Mexican-American specialties that have endured at Poncho's during its many decades of operation. The Crudo Burro is a hearty burrito filled with machaca and green tomatillo salsa and topped with red enchilada sauce and melted cheese. The tostada verde is a crisp tortilla layered green chili beef, cheddar, lettuce, sour cream, and tomatoes. Pollo fundido is a variant of a chimichanga with a fried burrito full of chicken meat topped with a cream cheese sauce.
chicken fajitas
As expected, there are also numerous combination plates available with items like tacos, enchiladas, or tostadas – always with fillings limited to beef or chicken – served with rice and refried beans. With hard shells, minimally seasoned meat, iceberg lettuce, and tons of shredded yellow cheese, the tacos are probably the mildest and least threatening item on the entire menu. The enchiladas are noticeably more flavorful due to the sauce in which they are coated, and all of the burritos can be prepared enchilada style with the addition of sauce and cheese.
pozole
Although Poncho's never really ventures into spicy territory, a white chicken pozole served only on weekends is a bit bolder than most of the menu and worth exploring. There's a roasted jalapeño at the center of the bowl with slices of the same among the radishes and cabbage served on the side. It's a good choice to enjoy in the Cantina, the bar portion of Poncho's with its own back entrance. There is no drink menu per se, but the bartender can create drinks like a mango margarita with a Tajin rim, chamoy, and a tamarind stick or pour a pint of draft beer.
mango margarita
Poncho's meals are generally quite hearty, but for anyone with remaining capacity, dessert choices include flan, churros, and miniature burritos with cherry and apple fillings. Much of the Poncho's menu is now replicated at Someburros, a local chain under the same ownership, but the original Poncho's has been kept largely intact in South Phoenix. Compared to places that specialize in Mexican seafood or Mexico City tortas, Poncho's comes across as unabashedly old school. For its fans, though, the restaurant is comfort food in a comforting environment.
7202 S. Central Ave., Phoenix AZ 85042
http://www.ponchosmexicanfood.com
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