It may be hard for Americans to imagine Italian food before tomatoes, but there was a time half a millennium ago when the red fruit was unknown in Europe. Columbus, Cortez, and other colonizers changed all that, and food traditions on both sides of the Atlantic were permanently altered. For Italian food, the transformation was so profound that a certain genre of Italian-American comfort food is commonly known as "red sauce" Italian. Even restaurants with a high end approach still see red, as seen in the name of Rosso Italian in downtown Phoenix.
short rib tagliatelle
Rosso is a spin-off of Pomo Pizzeria, which has long operated a location half a mile north along First Street in the Evans Churchill neighborhood. Rosso, a newer concept with a slightly more upscale feel, is in the heart of the CityScape development, just a block from multiple light rail stations and the new transfer hub currently under construction. Like most tenants at CityScape, Rosso has a confusing address. The restaurant is listed on Jefferson, but the entrance is around the corner on First Street with bike racks found on the same block up by Washington Street.
zuppa escarole
Rosso has a busy, well-shaded patio facing First Street, and an indoor-outdoor bar offering three sides of counter seating. Beyond the host station lies a dining room where walls of brick and bare concrete are punctuated by images of Sophia Loren and other icons of Italy. High ceilings with exposed ducts and pipes overhead add to a quasi-industrial feel that contrasts with the more urbane aesthetics of the stylishly plated and presented food. Red is naturally the predominant accent color as seen in the bar stools and chairs throughout the restaurant.
gnocchi burrata
The menu embraces a variety of Italian and Italian-American traditions, offering some interesting flourishes but seldom challenging the expectations of the convention attendees, sports fans, concert audiences, and downtown office workers that constitute its natural clientele. Antipasti include filling favorites like calamari and eggplant parmigiana. A bruschetta trio offers a flight of planks topped with ingredients like burrata, tomato, and mushrooms. Grilled focaccia goes well with an order of the filling zuppa escarole, a hearty soup that can function as a meal in itself.
maccheroni al forno
While Pomo PIzzeria serves some pasta, Rosso assigns noodles a prominent place on the menu. The short rib tagliatelle features supple ribbons of fresh pasta and tender meat with light, airy ricotta on top providing a soothing touch when mixed in. Maccheroni al forno is a solid, warming, and comforting baked pasta entree. The red is turned up to a higher level with the gnocchi burrata, a successful contrast of tastes with tangy tomato, basil, and creamy cheese, and the fusilloni rosso, twisted coils in a vibrant sauce enhanced by vodka and pancetta.
chicken saltimbocca
Rosso also has a selection of entrees, what might be known as secondi on a traditional Italian menu, with pairing of meat or vegetables with a bit of starch. These are all well crafted, but also where the restaurant seems most willing to make compromises for skittish diners. An early fish entree, branzino served whole, has been replaced with ubiquitous salmon. The saltimbocca, a traditional entree of thin pieces of veal wrapped in prosciutto, is made instead with chicken breast. A side of roasted Brussels sprouts is a worthwhile addition to any of these choices.
tartufata pizza
While pizza is not the main theme here, there is a selection of pies. Most are favorites like the spicy Diavola or the meaty Toto Sapore from the Pomo menu that have crossed over into Rosso territory. The sole pizza unique to Rosso is known as the Tartufata, a white pie with a simple cheese topping so as not to get in the way of the umami of mushrooms and truffle oil. If the crust seems not quite as differentiated between a charred rim and a soupy center as at VPN-certified Pomo up the street, it may be due to differences in the types of ovens used in each kitchen.
meatball panini and side salad
For the most part, Rosso relies on an all-day menu that extends from lunch into dinner; however, there are some midday sandwich specials offered. A meatball panini is built upon herbed focaccia with an airy, slightly crisp texture. The meatballs themselves are nuanced with sage as a prominent note that complements the melted cheese and tomato sauce. A chicken pesto sandwich is prepared with a thin breast piece that manages to evade the overcooking and dryness common in this situation. All of the lunch specials come with a side of chips or salad.
limoncello semifreddo
If the restaurant's decor and entrees lean towards a red color scheme, the dessert section is focused on whites and lighter colors. Semifreddo limoncello is a frozen treat with tart citrus, nuttiness from almonds, and lightness from meringue. Classics like panna cotta with vanilla bean; tiramisu with cocoa, espresso, and mascarpone; and a New York cheesecake with berries are all choices here as well. Speaking of New York, one of the bar's signature cocktails is Our Lady of Sing Sing, made with rum and sherry and perhaps named for the infamous prison there.
Our Lady of Sing Sing
There are numerous other cocktails including both originals and classics like a negroni. Draft beer selections include Italian import Peroni and a house amber ale. The wine selection unsurprisingly leans heavily on Italian reds, as well as white varietals like pinot grigio. A happy hour menu served only at the bar offers discounts on drinks and appetizers. The differentiation between Pomo Pizzeria and its nearby upscale offspring Rosso is subtle, and there's a great deal of overlap between the two. If Rosso has Downtown seeing red, it's not due to anger.
2 E. Jefferson St. #113, Phoenix AZ 85004
https://www.rossoitalian.com
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