There are always certain cuisines that are better represented in some parts of town than others. A great deal of that has to do with the distribution of populations of different ancestry who may be inclined to prepare or consume the traditional foods of their families' countries of origins. For Indian food, central Phoenix residents have often had to resign themselves to making trips up to Bell Road or over to the East Valley due a scarcity of nearby options. That's what makes Vayal's Indian Kitchen so refreshing. It's not only good Indian good, but its Midtown location fills a gap.
mysore masala dosa
Vayal's began as a food truck but now has a fixed location in a strip mall opposite St. Joseph's Hospital. The space, which was most recently home to two promising Japanese restaurants that lasted only a few months each, is about a third of a mile west of the Thomas/Central light rail station and on the boundary between the Willo Historic District to the south and the growing medical district to the north. Despite the protected bike lanes being built on neary Third and Fifth avenues, this plaza has no bike rack, necessitating the use of a sign post or railing instead.
medu vada
Vaya's storefront space keeps the decor simple with subtle nods to the restaurant's South Asian pedigree. An alternating pattern of white squares and simulated plants on the wall is punctuated by occasional decorative features like a sculpture of Asian elephants. It's a soothing room full of natural light, even if the view out the window is of a parking lot along Thomas Road. The compact restaurant operates under a full service model with an extensive menu of both northern and southern Indian favorites offered at night and an abbreviated lunch menu during the day.
aloo tikki chole
All portions of the menu are divided into vegetarian and non-vegetarian sections with nearly equal weight given to each. Samosas and pakoras are familiar fried favorites found at the beginning of the menu. The spice level goes up a notch with aloo tikki chole, patties similar to potato pancakes served with a chickpea curry and topped with crisp bits of sev (fried gram flour vermicelli), minced onions, and a bit of yogurt. Indo-Chinese cooking is represented with gobi Manchurian, fried cauliflower, while chicken 65 is crisp bits of poultry in a south Indian spice mix.
chicken chettinad
The culinary traditions of southern India are also represented in the medu vada, savory donuts made with ground black lentils and served with coconut chutney and sambar, a soup of lentils and tamarind. These chutneys, as well as others made with tomato and coriander, appear with other dishes of southern origin such as the myriad forms of dosa on the menu. These rolled rice crepes begin with the classic masala configuration in which they are stuffed with potato curry. Vayal's version of this has more spice and depth of flavor than what is typically encountered.
dal makhani
Beyond the familiar masala dosa, Vayal's offers several other variations. These include a simple dosa cooked on a griddle with a thin layer of egg on top and more complex choices like mysore dosa, in which the crepe is coated in a red chutney coating before being cooked and stuffed with masala curry, and the spring dosa, which is augmented with sauteed cabbage, carrots, onions, and peppers in addition to the usual potato curry. It seems like an Indo-Chinese variation on a traditional South Indian food, and it works well as a blend of multiple influences.
aloo gobi
A spicy and complex southern Indian curry, chicken chettinad, is served with rice, rather than in a dosa. Meat curries of northern Indian origin, a specialty that has been extensively represented in American cities for decades, include chicken tikka masala, a creamy Anglo-Indian classic and fiery, Portuguese-influenced vindaloo. Goat and lamb, less common meats on contemporary American menus, are among the protein choices for many of the entrees at Vayal's. Curries can be customized in terms of spice level on a 1-10 scale, with 7 or 8 providing a good burn.
spring dosa
Vegetables and legumes are represented here with capably executed classics like aloo gobi, potatoes and cauliflower, and dal makhani, a buttery porridge of black lentils. A yellow dal seasoned with mustard seeds is also available. Most of the curries and northern Indian dishes come automatically with basmati rice, and several biryanis, seasoned rice pilafs, are additional choices. The bread menu includes nearly ubiquitous naan in plain, butter, and garlic varieties, as well as flat, round chapatis and kulcha, an onion-stuffed bread cooked in a tandoori style.
lamb curry lunch special
While the dinner menu is clearly designed for sharing and family-style eating, the weekday lunch menu offers individually plated meals on metal trays, a presentation known as a thali, in which a manageable portion of a curry is served with naan, rice, and two vegetable dishes: aloo gobi and saag paneer, a combination of creamed spinach and cubed cheese. These lunch specials not only allow each diner in a group of coworkers or casual friends to order an individual entree, but also enable each person to sample several items from the menu at once.
kheer
Vayal's offers three desserts: gulab jamun, cheese balls in sweet syrup; carrot halwa with milk and cardamom; and kheer, a rice pudding that is satisfying but lacking the raisins mentioned on the menu. There is no liquor service, but a liquid sweet is a tangy mango lassi made with tropical fruit and yogurt. Even if it were only average, Vayal's would be welcome for filling a void in central Phoenix. Fortunately, the restaurant is on par with the best of what can be found in north Phoenix or the East Valley, making a choice between proximity and quality unnecessary.
507 W. Thomas Rd., Phoenix AZ 85013
https://www.vayalskitchen.com
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