At first glance, there might seem to be little similarity between copper, the useful metal known for its ability to conduct heat and electricity, and sage, the herb used in many cultures for both culinary and medicinal purposes. There is overlap, however, in the rustic, warm image associated with both, as well as any palette combining their colors. That seems to be the case with Copper & Sage, an Uptown restaurant that combines copper tables, some sage-colored decor, and a diverse menu that leans most heavily on the traditions of the American South.
shrimp and grits
Copper & Sage is located about three blocks east of the Central/Camelback light rail station. The entrance to the standalone building, actually two structures joined by a courtyard, faces Camelback, and a bike rack can be found outside the eastern building. Although copper and sage are the accents here, the predominant aesthetic element is the red brick used throughout. The interior is defined by a small bar; one dark, cozy dining room; and a second room with more light that provides a transition to the outdoor dining space in the restaurant's shaded patio.
fried green tomatoes
That patio is particularly popular during brunch service when weather permits, and although there can be noise from passing traffic on Camelback, the trees in front of the restaurant provide some shielding from both sound and sun. On the other side of the patio is the second building, which is home to Blue Stave, an extension of the restaurant with more of a speakeasy feel and its own distinct cocktail menu. The food served in both spaces comes from the same kitchen, and the menus for the two different environments have recently been synchronized into one.
Dungeness crab cakes
The menu affirms its Southern roots with starters like fried green tomatoes, a welcome presence in Uptown given the recent closure of Southern Rail down the street. The version served at Copper & Sage starts with a traditional crust of coarse cornmeal and then adds some flourishes of goat cheese and balsamic reduction. Dungeness crab cakes and deviled eggs also stick close to the classic while a black-eyed pea hummus dappled with grape tomatoes, pepitas, and feta combines the popular Middle Eastern spread with a favorite legume of Southern cooking.
collard greens
The hybrid of Mediterranean and Southern influences repeats with a big basket of fried green beans and tzatziki as a side sauce for dipping. At brunch, some other items like jalapeño corn fritters, a spicy version of classic hush puppies, may also be found as shareable starters or sides. Greenery includes various salads of arugula, kale, and romaine, but a distinctly Southern alternative is the collard greens. They're salty, spicy, and in keeping with the trend away from boiled, mushy green, the collards are lightly cooked with onion, garlic, pork belly, and hot sauce.
jalapeño corn fritters
The Brussels Sprouts are heavily charred and not as distinctive, but still a satisfying vegetable. Main dishes begin with sandwiches like Nashville hot chicken or a classic smashburger and add some Southwestern touches with trios of taco with fillings of either blackened fish or pork belly. During weekend brunch hours, entrees like PB&J French toast or apple pie pancakes are featured. In the evening, however, the emphasis is on plated entrees such as halibut with collards and white beans or filet mignon served with asparagus and bearnaise sauce.
black-eyed pea hummus
A worthwhile upgrade is to add an optional layer of classic crab Oscar on top of the steak. Additional seafood options include walleye fish and chips, grilled Scottish salmon, pan-seared scallops, and shrimp and grits. The last item is an interesting twist on a Southern classic. While many places serve versions of this dish with a traditional sauce based on tomatoes and the holy trinity of onions, celery, and bell pepper, Copper & Sage turns instead to earthy mushrooms and bacon for a strong dose of umami flavor over mild crustaceans and a creamy corn base.
tagliatelle
The restaurant's one foray into pasta is a successful one. Thick, chewy ribbons of noodles made on the premises are tossed with slabs of sun-dried tomato, pieces of Italian sausage, and leaves of lacinato kale. The mixture is then dressed with a creamy sauce with notes of lemon and parmesan. For dessert, Copper & Sage offers a brownie, probably quite a good one, but so does everyone else. In keeping with the restaurant's Southern orientation, beignets with powdered sugar and a side of fruit compote, peach when recently sampled, are offered.
butterscotch torte
The standout sweet here, though, is the butterscotch torte. Itself moist and flavorful, the small cake is then topped with a bit of fluffy cream, pecan praline, and served with a side of vanilla gelato. The small bar produces a variety of original cocktails designed to be paired either with dinner entrees or, as with the Blushing Dove, a variant on the grapefruit-based paloma, with brunch fare. The restaurant is also part of the trend towards high-quality mocktails. The "zero proof" section of the menu includes appealing choices like the orange-tinged Italian Spritz.
Blushing Dove
The tap handles feature regional favorites like Pizza Port Chronic from San Diego and Barrio Blonde from Tucson among the draft beer choices. An admirable wine list includes in-state favorites like Sand Reckoner red from Cochise County along with selections from California and abroad. Copper and Sage has already announced plans for a second location in suburban Goodyear. Meanwhile in Uptown Phoenix, Southern food is not new to the neighborhood, but thankfully, there is a new location for it near the crossroads of Central and Camelback.
322 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix AZ 85012
https://www.copperandsageaz.com
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