Eater - All |
- You No Longer Have to Fly to Denmark to Get a Taste of Noma
- Dallas Gayborhood Oak Lawn Is Making a Post-Pandemic Comeback. Many LGBT People Still Don’t Feel Welcome.
- How to Make Delicious, Crunchy Focaccia From a Hudson Valley Mainstay
- The James Beard Awards Will Be Fully Back in 2022
- These Restaurants Were Approved for Federal Aid. White Restaurateurs Just Hijacked It.
- The Absolutely Essential Restaurants Across North and South Carolina
- Inside the Fight to Become the Dominant Delivery App
- 18 Restaurant Openings to Watch This Week
| You No Longer Have to Fly to Denmark to Get a Taste of Noma Posted: 29 Jun 2021 02:31 PM PDT  The lauded Copenhagen restaurant of chef René Redzepi will release a home line of vegetarian and vegan garums A fun part of my pre-pandemic life was thinking about all the restaurants I would never have the pleasure of eating at, and then feeling terrible about myself. Maybe they were too expensive, or too hard to get a reservation at, or just too far away. Then there was Noma, the award-winning Copenhagen restaurant of chef René Redzepi. It was a trifecta: Distant, truly expensive, and impossible to get into. But now, for those of us not lucky enough to fly to Denmark for a 20-course meal even without a global pandemic holding us back, the Noma Projects arm of the restaurant is poised to release a line of garum condiments. Garum, reaching back to the Roman Empire, is traditionally a fermented sauce of fish, salt, and sometimes herbs. In Noma's case, according to the Wall Street Journal, these garums will actually be vegetarian and vegan, respectively. The egg white and smoked mushroom garums are, in some ways, a product of pandemic circumstance. The restaurant was developing fermented sauces as far back as 2014, when Eater took a look into Noma's now-closed Science Bunker, but Redzepi and his team never had time to fine-tune their product. "It's something we've been thinking about for many years," he told the WSJ, "But we were always too busy." Now, the restaurant's Fermentation Lab is ready to introduce their first two shippable products to home cooks. /cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/22689632/21_06_NOMAFERMENTATION11532_aRGB_High.jpg) Ditte Isager Because it took so long for these condiments to reach the market — they won't actually be released until fall or winter, according to the Noma Projects website — the restaurant is, for once, not leading the charge or setting the trend. In the past year, with so many people stuck at home and cooking for themselves, tons of restaurants have come out with condiments and other use-at-home goods designed to improve the lives of home cooks who miss restaurants. You can buy chili crisp, barbecue sauce, or spice blends and hot sauces from any number of beloved institutions. Selling condiments that travel well was a way for restaurants to connect with diners during a time of intense isolation. But it seems the trend might stick around for good. And for Noma, a restaurant that a majority of diners will never get close to, condiments and other packaged foods that travel well could be the perfect way to offer just a taste of a very elusive experience. Of course, like anything Noma does, these two condiments are the result of a very, very exhaustive creative process. They were, according to the WSJ, chosen from hundreds of vinegars, misos, kombuchas and garums developed by the restaurant's test lab. Jason Ignacio White, the Fermentation Lab's director, said that these garums work their way into all sorts of soups, sauces, and vinaigrettes at the restaurant: "The same way you might put a tiny bit of zest on a dish." To make these non-fish garums, the ingredients — mushrooms and egg whites, in this case — are brewed in a warm solution of koji rice, the grains inoculated with an edible mold. According to the WSJ, Noma Projects will release more garums once the first two are out in the world, including one flavored intensely with roasted chicken wings. Redzepi told the Journal that he hopes the vegetarian garums will help home cooks transition to more plant-based diets. Internally, he's hoping this product line will make the restaurant some money. Since Noma opened 18 years ago, according to Redzepi, the average profit margin has been only three percent. Ideally, these funky condiments will help pad the restaurant's pockets a bit. Admittedly, I did not spend a ton of time the past year wondering what Noma was up to, slightly more concerned with, you know, making it through a pandemic. But my friends are traveling again, posting about it on Instagram, and the good ol' FOMO has come creeping back in. I feel perfectly content these days poking my head out of the house to have drinks, or even eat in a restaurant's crowded dining room. World travel, alternately, still doesn't feel that appealing, especially when even my local coffee shop still feels like an adventure. But topping my eggs or rice with a funky sauce made by some of the world's foremost fermentation experts? Still pretty exciting.  |
| Posted: 29 Jun 2021 12:51 PM PDT  Activists and longtime regulars say Oak Lawn's LGBT nightlife destinations have a long way to go in creating safe spaces for all people https://dallas.eater.com/2021/6/29/22555930/dallas-oak-lawn-inclusiveness-trans-people-lgbt-welcoming-sue-ellens |
| How to Make Delicious, Crunchy Focaccia From a Hudson Valley Mainstay Posted: 29 Jun 2021 10:30 AM PDT  Peak summer produce makes Talbott & Arding's focaccia an all-star seasonal meal Since 2014, Talbott & Arding has been a mainstay of the culinary scene in New York's Hudson Valley. Helmed by Mona Talbott, a veteran chef and Chez Panisse alum, and Kate Arding, a widely respected cheese expert, the Hudson-based shop is well-known in the region for its meticulously sourced products and prepared foods. Now, after seven years in business, they are growing: This July, they will reopen in a completely renovated 8,000-square-foot space two blocks from their original shop. The new location will feature an expanded pastry program, a larger pantry section, and fresh pasta. Talbott and Arding built their business around the way they like to feed themselves, offering high-quality complements — cheese, pastries, dairy, olives — to home-cooked mains, as well as full takeaway meals. Talbott sees their expansion as an opportunity to become "that go-to spot for superb quality, like the Hudson Valley's Dean & DeLuca," she says. Their goal, she explains, is to supply everything their customers need for a perfect picnic, or a beautiful at-home meal. "We continually cook the food we want to eat at home," Talbott says. "We're restaurant-quality, but not restaurant-fussy." Yet what that means has changed as the demographics of the region have shifted radically since COVID took hold; Hudson was recently dubbed the No. 1 city in the nation for net migration since the pandemic began. "A lot of people are living here year-round now. They're working here, their kids are in school, and they want to entertain at home," Talbott says. "They go to the farmers market for produce, and they come to us for cheese, charcuterie, and sometimes the more complicated entrees they don't want to cook themselves." The Hudson Valley is awash in incredible products, thanks to the region's many farms and makers. But one thing Talbott and Arding found lacking was a consistent supply of high-quality breads. So, they started making their own. Focaccia was a natural place to begin "because it's easy and very quick," Talbott says. "No knead. Just mix, proof, and bake." She drew inspiration from Caroline Fidanza, proprietor of the much-beloved — and much-missed — Williamsburg sandwich shop Saltie, whose focaccia Talbott adored. "We started using their recipe, barely changing it," she explains. The Talbott & Arding team scaled the recipe for thickness, resulting in a thinner bread ideal for grilled cheese (now a Talbott & Arding signature offering), and also the perfect vehicle for simple, seasonal pizzas. Talbott considers the recipe virtually foolproof. "It gets really crunchy," she notes, adding that it's crucial to allow enough rising time for the dough to fully double in size, and that the proofed dough needs to be docked evenly before baking in order to achieve medium-sized, rather than enormous, bubbles. It's perfect eaten fresh, Talbott says — but also "delicious re-toasted the following day." Focaccia Pizza with Green Garlic, Zucchini, Ricotta Salata, and Arugula Salad Recipe
Ingredients:For the dough: 3 ¾ cups (570 grams) all-purpose flour For the pizza toppings: 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil For the arugula salad: 2 cups loosely packed arugula Instructions:Make the dough: Step 1: In a large bowl, thoroughly combine the flour, salt, and yeast. Pour in the warm water (about 110 degrees) and use your hands to mix and fold the dough until all the flour is incorporated. The dough will be sticky. Step 2: Transfer the dough to a plastic container and store covered in the fridge for at least 8 hours and up to two days. Make the pizza: Step 1: When you are ready to make your pizza, remove the dough from the refrigerator. Temper it for about an hour at room temperature. Step 2: Use the olive oil to generously coat an 18-by-13-inch baking sheet. Transfer the focaccia dough to the pan and fold it over on itself. Let the dough rise in a warm place for 1½ to 2 hours, or until doubled in size. (Your rising time will vary depending on climate and humidity.) Step 3: Preheat the oven to 450 degrees and turn on the convection fan if you have one. If you have a baking stone or baking peel, place it in the center of the oven rack. Step 4: Coat your palms using the olive oil that pools in the sides of the pan, and gently press, stretching and flattening the dough to the edges. Use your fingertips to gently dimple the dough. Sprinkle the flaky sea salt and ½ teaspoon Aleppo pepper across it, then top with the green garlic and zucchini slices, and finish by sprinkling the remaining ½ teaspoon Aleppo pepper. Step 5: Bake for 15 to 18 minutes or until the crust is golden-brown. Step 6: Using a large metal spatula, transfer the focaccia pizza from the baking sheet to a cooling rack. Top with grated Parmesan cheese, lemon zest, and ricotta salata. Make the arugula salad: Step 1: Toss the arugula with the lemon juice, olive oil, and salt to taste. Step 2: Cut the focaccia pizza into 8 to 10 slices and garnish each slice with a handful of the arugula salad. Sara B. Franklin is a writer and professor of food studies at NYU. She lives with her twins, rambunctious dogs, and a flock of chickens in Kingston, New York.  |
| The James Beard Awards Will Be Fully Back in 2022 Posted: 29 Jun 2021 10:17 AM PDT  The James Beard Foundation is doing "an audit of policies and procedures in order to ensure a more transparent and equitable process for the future" After taking a two-year break from award-giving, the James Beard Foundation announced that "the next evolution" of the James Beard Awards will take place in 2022. The 2022 James Beard Awards will reflect policy and procedure changes in light of an audit that began in August 2020 and will be completed this summer. Per the announcement, the Awards audit focuses on "a code of ethics, composition of committees and judges, criteria for winners, and developing policies and procedures for unforeseen events," all with the aim to "ensure a more transparent and equitable process for the future." The James Beard Foundation essentially canceled its 2020 awards citing pandemic-related hardships in the American restaurant industry. The cancellation happened in a sort of slow-motion train wreck of crises: After revealing the list of finalists in May then committing to a virtual ceremony later that year, the Foundation announced in August 2020 that it would not be giving out awards in 2020 or 2021. The following day, Eater reported that the Foundation had quietly added a note to its list of 2020 nominees: Several had withdrawn their names. Within a week of the cancellation announcement, the New York Times reported that it wasn't just the pandemic that had prompted the Foundation to cancel the virtual event. Two additional factors were at play: 1) the Foundation had learned that there were to be no Black winners and 2) as workers spent the summer exposing abusive conditions at restaurants around the country, the Foundation could not figure out how to account for all the accusations being leveled at current nominees. Some members of the JBFA voting committees told the Times and Eater that ultimately, decision-making surrounding the 2020 awards lacked transparency at best, or attempted to change the outcomes — compromising the integrity of the awards — at worst. Instead, the Beard Foundation scrapped its usual awards and hosted an online ceremony via Twitter in September 2020, which honored the nominees (the ones whose names remained on the list), the America's Classics winners, and previously announced winners in categories like Leadership and Lifetime Achievement. A planned 2021 ceremony will not be the James Beard Awards as they're traditionally known, but seemingly something similar to 2020's version: "a celebration of the independent restaurant community, honoring those who have made a significant impact on the industry and in their communities during this crisis." More details on the 2021 event to come in the following weeks; as of now, the Foundation is only noting that there will be both virtual and in-person elements. Disclosure: Some Vox Media staff members are part of the voting body for the James Beard Awards.  |
| These Restaurants Were Approved for Federal Aid. White Restaurateurs Just Hijacked It. Posted: 29 Jun 2021 08:48 AM PDT  Over 2,900 businesses owned by women, people of color, and veterans haven't gotten the sorely needed money the SBA promised them following lawsuits filed by MAGA-aligned groups on behalf of white restaurant owners When Ruth Gresser heard about the Restaurant Revitalization Fund's grants for restaurants that had been affected by the pandemic, she made sure to get her paperwork in order as quickly as possible. "We were prepared," she said. "On May 3, we submitted an application at 10 minutes after noon, and the portal opened at noon." Gresser, the owner of the Washington, D.C.-based Pizzeria Paradiso chain, applied for a grant and was relieved when her application was approved a few weeks later. Gresser had big plans for the grant money: She was going to pay back rent, and set some funds aside for maintenance costs. Most importantly, she was going to use it to hire more staff. "Last March, my staff of 170 went down to 20 people. Over the year-plus of the pandemic, we have grown back to around 70, but in order to operate my restaurants at 100 percent — I have four locations, and we started the pandemic with five — I would have to hire a lot of people," Gresser said. She declined to share how much total funding she had been awarded, but said it would have been enough to restart full operations at all four remaining Pizzeria Paradiso locations and get them "through the next year or so of recovery." The money never came. Gresser is one of more than 2,900 restaurant owners across the country who may no longer receive grant money they had been promised by the Small Business Administration, thanks to a couple of lawsuits claiming that the funds — which gave priority to women, people of color, and other small-business owners who usually lack access to capital or have been historically marginalized — were discriminatory ... against white men. From the beginning, it was clear that there wouldn't be enough funds to go around. Congress set aside $28.6 billion for the Restaurant Revitalization Fund as part of the 2021 American Rescue Plan, which passed in March. The bill required the Small Business Administration to prioritize applications filed by businesses that are at least 51 percent owned by women, veterans, and people considered "socially or economically disadvantaged" — meaning people of color and people whose net worths fall below a certain net worth — for 21 days. After the three-week period passed, the SBA could begin processing applications and distributing funds to all other businesses. On May 18, just over two weeks after the application portal opened, the SBA announced that it had received 303,000 applications thus far — 57 percent of which had been filed by "women, veterans, and socially and economically disadvantaged business owners" — adding up to more than $69 billion in requests. By that point, the agency had approved "nearly 38,000 applicants ... for more than $6 billion," the release read. These initial recipients were all in the priority category. Three days after that press release was published, a pair of restaurant owners sued the SBA, claiming the prioritization of businesses owned by people from socially and economically disadvantaged groups was discriminatory against white men. And on May 28, a federal judge in Texas issued an injunction preventing the SBA from distributing outstanding funds to applicants in the priority category who had been approved for their grants but hadn't gotten the money yet. Gresser was among them. The injunction meant that the SBA could, however, start distributing money to non-priority applicants. The right-wing advocacy group America First Legal — founded by former Trump advisor Stephen Miller and Trump White House chief of staff Mark Meadows — filed the lawsuit on behalf of white restaurant owners in Texas and Pennsylvania. The owners of the Penn Hotel Sports & Raw Bar in Hershey, Pennsylvania, and the owners of the Lost Cajun in Keller, Texas, are "being subjected to unconstitutional race and sex discrimination by the 'priorities' that the statute commands for minority- and women-owned businesses," the lawsuit alleges. The Wisconsin Institute for Law & Liberty, another conservative advocacy group, filed a separate lawsuit on behalf of the owner of Jake's Bar and Grill, a restaurant in Harriman, Tennessee. Neither Janice and Jason Smith, the owners of the Lost Cajun, nor Eric Nyman, the owner of the Penn Hotel Sports & Raw Bar, qualify as socially or economically disadvantaged. (It's unclear what percentage of the Lost Cajun is owned by Janice Smith; if the restaurant were at least 51 percent woman-owned, it could have applied as a priority candidate.) Nyman applied for around $640,400 in funding on May 3, the day applications opened. The Smiths applied for roughly $187,700 on May 5. Thus, the lawsuit alleges, it's possible that "the entire $28.6 billion that Congress allocated to the Restaurant Revitalization Fund will be depleted" before Nyman and the Smiths "can even be considered for relief under the program." (Each restaurant's grant funding is calculated based on income and expenses from previous years.) As the New York Times reported, the Lost Cajun, the Penn Hotel Sports & Raw Bar, and Jake's Bar and Grill all received grant funding despite being non-priority applicants. They received their awards on June 1, after the Texas judge issued the injunction preventing the SBA from distributing outstanding funds to businesses in the priority category. And although the America First Legal lawsuit claims that the SBA's prioritization period is a form of "race or sex discrimination," the government's definition of "socially and economically disadvantaged groups" isn't limited to race or gender. Bob Freeman, the owner of the historic Buena Vista Cafe in San Francisco, applied for a priority grant as a veteran. His grant was approved on May 28 — the same day the Texas injunction was issued — though he declined to say how much the total funding would have been. On June 12, Freeman received an email saying he would no longer be receiving the funds. "The SBA is not able to pay 2,965 priority applicants — including yourself — who were previously approved and notified of their approval. SBA will not pay these claims because the legal conclusions in these court rulings would preclude payment," the email read. "SBA's leadership is frustrated with this outcome and remains committed to doing everything we can to support disadvantaged businesses getting the help they need to recover from this historic pandemic." "We could've been in the other group, except for the fact that both my [business] partner and I are veterans. He was an Army officer, I was a Navy officer," Freeman said. "I spent three years, four months, 29 days, and some-odd hours in the Navy, and I'm getting penalized for it." But it's unclear whether applying as a non-priority candidate would have been beneficial. The SBA has awarded grants to more than 100,000 restaurants so far. Of those, around 72,000 were in the priority category, according to the New York Times. Priority applicants have gotten roughly $18 billion of the $27.5 billion the SBA has distributed — meaning it's entirely possible that the fund would have been depleted before the priority period ended. In an emailed statement, an SBA spokesperson said many restaurants in both categories would not be able to receive grants due to budget constraints. Greg León, the owner of Amilinda in Milwaukee (who also spoke to the Times), was hoping to use the funds to expand the restaurant's hours, expand the restaurant's bar, upgrade its ventilation system, and — most importantly — hire more employees and give raises to existing staff. "Although all the restrictions in Milwaukee have been lifted, we're still operating at 50 percent because we need to bring in more staff," León told Eater. "To bring in more guests, we need more staff, but we can't afford to bring in more staff without making more money. So we're caught in this vicious circle." On June 22, León received an email from the SBA referencing his status as a priority applicant. "[D]ue to recent court rulings, the SBA will not be able to distribute" his grant, the email read. But the Texas judge's injunction requires the SBA to keep processing applications and distributing grants to those not in the priority category. Given the total number of applicants in both categories and the relatively small size of the fund, there's no way everyone who qualifies for a grant will get one. "If Congress provides SBA with additional money for the Restaurant Revitalization Fund," León's notice read, "SBA will be able to process in the order received and fund applications as approved until the additional money is exhausted." Whether or not León and the more than 2,950 others whose grants were rescinded get funding is ultimately up to Congress. A bipartisan bill introduced earlier this month would add $60 billion to the fund; if lawmakers agree on a bill that provides adequate funds for the restaurants who qualified for grants but never got their money, the lawsuits will be moot. But if Congress doesn't pass a second round of funding, restaurant owners in the priority category whose grants were approved but never distributed will only get funding if the Revitalization Fund somehow doesn't run out of money — which it's already about to. In an emailed statement, the SBA said it would "continue to work around the clock to get the nation's restaurants, venues, and other small businesses back on track." Per the Counter, the agency is also urging Congress to infuse the Restaurant Revitalization Fund with more money. Gresser, the D.C. pizzeria owner, is hoping that a second round of funding will mean there's finally enough money to go around. "This program has been hampered from the beginning because it did not address the true size of the need that it was created to rectify. Instead, the law established a false scarcity by funding this program at [one-third] of the recognized, anticipated need," she said. "Of course Congress could resolve this by passing the replenishment bill. My individual story is important but the bigger story is that given the way the program was funded, the full scope of the economic impact of the pandemic continues to go unaddressed." Like other restaurant owners across the country, León has had trouble hiring more staff as everyone scrambles to reopen at once. He planned on using some of the $285,000 he had been awarded to raise wages at the restaurant to make hiring more competitive. Now that he has been denied the funds, León said, it will have a trickle-down effect on the whole community. "This isn't money that's going in my pocket," he said. "This is money that's going into the business. And not only is it going into my business, but it's going to all the local farmers we work with, the fishmongers, the butchers, and the growers. The less sales I make, that's less tax revenue that the city and county and state make. If I hire more people, that's more payroll taxes, that's more Medicare and Social Security we're paying into." Gaby del Valle is a freelance reporter who primarily covers immigration and labor.  |
| The Absolutely Essential Restaurants Across North and South Carolina Posted: 29 Jun 2021 08:14 AM PDT  From Raleigh to Charleston, from Myrtle Beach to Chapel Hill https://carolinas.eater.com/2021/6/29/22533167/best-restaurants-north-and-south-carolina |
| Inside the Fight to Become the Dominant Delivery App Posted: 29 Jun 2021 07:08 AM PDT  How DoorDash, GrubHub, and Uber Eats became giants Back in 2019, GrubHub CEO Matt Maloney was coming to grips with a new reality. "We believe online diners are becoming more promiscuous," he wrote to shareholders after a particularly mediocre quarter. Grubhub had spent years as the market leader in restaurant delivery. But by fall 2019, it was no longer on top. Earlier that year, DoorDash overtook GrubHub in sales for the first time ever. And competitive pressure was closing in from all sides. Uber had gone public just months before and was flush with cash, which was good news for Uber Eats, its delivery service. And these competitors were doing everything they could to win our delivery dollars and investor funding. The fight for consumers — promiscuous or not — was on. In this episode of Land of the Giants: Delivery Wars, our podcast collaboration with Recode, we track the rise of the biggest third-party apps and how they've become giants in the industry, from the point of view of the people who built them — investors, executives, founders — and what motivated the key decisions that changed how delivery works and changed how we eat. Listen to episode two to hear more about how these brands got started, the investors that supercharged them, and the lengths they went to in order to reach the scale they needed to dominate the industry. Subscribe to Land of the Giants: Apple Podcasts | Google Podcasts | Spotify | Stitcher | TuneIn  |
| 18 Restaurant Openings to Watch This Week Posted: 29 Jun 2021 06:11 AM PDT  From the Editor: Everything you missed in food news last week This post originally appeared on June 26, 2021 in Amanda Kludt's newsletter "From the Editor," a roundup of the most vital news and stories in the food world each week. Read the archives and subscribe now. Just as June has been a busy month for reopening and reuniting across America, it's been a busy month at Eater for major features and projects. So before we get into the news and openings below, I want to draw your attention to some special pieces we've published this month: — First, our return to travel. We've been publishing updated guides and maps in our local Eater cities throughout the pandemic, but we took some time this spring to update over 100 maps across North America. Now you'll have updated guidance for you wherever you're going this summer. — Over in the Pacific Northwest, we published a whole slew of stories exploring coffee culture in the region, offering guides, features, interviews, and more. — A little further south in California, Bill Esparza has a four-part exploration of the state's barbacoa trail. Based on 15 years of dining around the state and two months of intensive research, his feature explores stylistic differences in the region and uncovers an artist who executes "what might be the clearest, most comprehensive expression of ancestral barbacoa in the United States." — Finally, we just launched a podcast this week with our friends over at technology site Recode. It's a food delivery-focused mini-series of their hit podcast Land of the Giants. Over four episodes, we track the impact of third-party apps like DoorDash, UberEats, and Grubhub have on consumers, restaurant owners, the industry as a whole, and delivery drivers. Stick around for episode four, where I co-host and get to talk about my current obsession, virtual chain concepts. We'll also host a panel with characters from the series today at 1 pm EST. OpeningsAs one would expect given the state of vaccinations and reopenings in the U.S. (plus pent up demand), it's been a big month for openings: — In Vegas, we have the long-awaited Resorts World, the first brand new resort to open on the strip since the Cosmopolitan in 2010. It's also a resort that's notably eschewing in-room dining in the hotel and instead telling guests to order from the 40 restaurants downstairs via Grubhub. Meanwhile, the Wynn is about to open a lavish "supper club" and LA import Delilah. — Los Angeles finally gets to try the latest restaurant from République's Margarita and Walter Manzke, a french spot called Bicyclette Bistro. — New York got a Bushwick location of cultishly loved natural wine bar Ten Belles, a fun bar in Williamsburg called Thief, a massive steakhouse in a big waterfront FiDi development from Andrew Carmellini called Carne Mare, a nostalgic Upper West Side diner Old John's, and the newest addition to Roosevelt Island's first hotel, Anything At All. — Major Food Group's glam rooftop restaurant Contessa and "New American meets new Korean" restaurant Cloud & Spirits opened in Boston and Cambridge, respectively. — Elsewhere, we've got a new location of New York's Lure in Chicago, a location of London's Sexy Fish in Miami, and a location of NY/DC bakery Mah-Ze-Dahr in Virginia; two attempts at Chinese-Latin fusions opened in Philly and Miami; D.C. power dining spot the Oval Room flipped to a French-themed La Bise; Greenville has a new destination spot in Camp; and the very exciting revival of the historic Empress of China banquet hall, Empress By Boon, opened in San Francisco. News & More— The restaurant revitalization fund stopped prioritizing disadvantaged groups after two lawsuits (filed by white men who actually did get the funding) claimed the SBA was being discriminatory. — Edouardo Jordan's entire staff at Salare and JuneBaby quit after the Seattle Times published an exposé detailing multiple allegations of sexual misconduct against the chef. — New York joined Pennsylvania in pulling back on to-go wine and alcohol sales for restaurants with pretty much zero notice. Restaurateurs found themselves suddenly sitting on thousands of dollars of inventory they couldn't possibly sell in time. — You could watch the documentary about Wolfgang Puck but you'd be better off spending a fraction of the time watching this beautiful profile of a tuna and seafood dealer in New Jersey. — Charcuterie board businesses are a thing in Detroit. — Houston's getting a new, inclusive, progressive food festival this summer. — Nancy Silverton is expanding to London just as Daniel Boulud retreats. (Also her ex, the influential chef Mark Peel, died this month after a bout with cancer.) — Sonic and Dunkin' launched their weirdly fruity and colorful takes on boba drinks.  |
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