So many restaurants approach Japanese food with an "all of the above" approach. The sushi bar feels it has to offer ramen, the teriyaki joint makes some California rolls, the noodle shop adds yakitori to the menu, and innumerable places with "izakaya" in their name offer items well outside the tavern food traditionally associated with that type of establishment. Not all of these efforts fail, but not all succeed either. It's hard to be all things to all people, so it is refreshing that Across the Pond constrains itself to two niches, sushi and cocktails, and executes both well.
omakase nigiri
Across the Pond is the younger sibling of the Clever Koi, a popular pan-Asian restaurant that has been around for a while in both Midtown Phoenix and Gilbert. At the Phoenix location, just a block north of the Indian School / Central light rail station, a space towards the back of the same building that houses Clever Koi has been made into a stylish bar for raw fish, creative drinks, and little else. A rike rack takes the form of a long railing-style rack facing Central Avenue. From Central, customers walk down a breezeway to find Across the Pond at the end on the right
mackerel and salmon nigiri
While it's not literally across a pond or any body of water from Clever Koi, the restaurant is more-or-less across the walkway, allowing for customers, ingredients, and ideas to flow freely between the two businesses. It's perfectly possible to appreciate Across the Pond as a place for light bites and a round of drinks before going to the Clever Koi, but it's also entirely feasible to make an entire meal of the sushi and similar foods prepared behind the bar. The idea of bar food should be taken literally here because there is no kitchen per se at Across the Pond.
shrimp ceviche
Fish is sliced and prepared in plain view at the counter with an occasional portable burner or torch used as needed for seared items or sauces. Those physical constraints keep the restaurant's tight focus in place while customers who want items like ramen or fried rice have the opportunity to walk just a few doors down to dine at Clever Koi. With that in mind, most customers who visit are there for one or both of the restaurant's specialties and often know how to find bargains at happy hour and search for the best specials on the chalkboard near the bar.
Poke on a Leaf
The decor is dark and slightly swanky with Midcentury Modern furnishings to match the building's heritage. Seating is found at the bar, as well as small tables that wrap around it. A side room offers a few high top tables with a screen displaying scenes of busy street life in urban Japan. If the vibe at Across the Pond seems deliberately retro, the approach to both sushi and cocktails seems thoroughly up-to-date while still respectful of tradition. The menu for both is simply a tall, narrow printed sheet augmented by specials described by the restaurant's staff.
Ebi-Ten roll
The sushi menu begins with seafood listed a la carte for both nigiri and sashimi. Across the Pond prices and serves nigiri by the piece, not by the pair as is more commonly seen, so budgets and expectations should be adjusted accordingly. The list includes not just prized species like bluefin tuna, but also specific cuts like o-toro, or fatty belly meat, and chu-toro,with a moderate level of fat content. The coffee-cured salmon is one of the few cases where a bit of flavor is added to the fish; otherwise, the approach is to let ingredients speak for themselves.
sashimi assortment
Specials might include torozuke, fatty tuna that has been marinated in garlic and soy, infusing the fish with a rich flavor that negates any temptation to overpower it with soy sauce, wasabi, or ginger. Often the best way to enjoy a straightforward presentation of minimally adorned fish is to order the nigiri omakase, five distinct types of sushi chosen by the chef. An equally effective way to experience some variety is by ordering the assorted sashimi, which is artfully presented in a wooden box with the server suggesting the optimal order in which to sample each piece of fish.
torozuke nigiri
While the half dozen rolls offer more starch and substance than nigiri and sashimi, the restaurant maintains a restrained approach, not going overboard with cream cheese fillings or excessively sweet sauces. The Slammin' Salmon probably comes closest to typical American sushi with its addition of spicy lobster and cucumber. Still, the use of sriracha made in house from Fresno peppers adds distinctiveness. Likewise, the Ebi-Ten is a version of a shrimp tempura roll with a lighter, less gloppy feel than usual and an avocado puree on the side.
Wrath of Ryu
Poke on a leaf puts a mixture of raw fish over slices of avocado roll with another type of sriracha made unexpectedly from cashews. The shrimp ceviche is the most hearty dish, largely due to the generous serving of wonton chips provided for dipping. The other emphasis of Across the Pond, cocktails, is expressed through a selection of drinks using original approaches and incorporating trends like fat washing and clarification. The result is refreshing drinks served tall like the dragon fruit flavored Wrath of Ryu or up like the smoky, rum-based Golden Child.
raspberry and mango sorbets
A selection of sake and wine is also available. Two taps handles are used for Sapporo and rotating craft beer choice. In terms of dessert, there are two choices, both of which are brought over from the Clever Koi. The banana fritters are familiar and filling, resembling beignets. The other option is sorbet, available in seasonal flavors such as raspberry or mango. Outsourced dessert from across the walkway is about as far from sushi and cocktails as Across the Pond ventures. It's a focused approach that may accomplish more than trying to please everyone.
4236 N. Central Ave. #101, Phoenix AZ 85012
https://www.acrossthepondphx.com
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